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Magic Star Double Oriental Lily
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Multi Color Latifrlum Grape Hyacinth
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Double Blooming Lavender Freesia
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Harvest of Memories Tall Bearded Iris
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Alpine Journey Tall Bearded Iris
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Double Ringer Tall Bearded Iris
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Fringe of Gold Tall Bearded Iris
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FAQS for Buying Bulbs Online
Which flowering bulbs are the most reliable for beginners and why?
Which flowering bulbs are the most reliable for beginners and why?
First, look for species that tolerate a wide range of soils, shrug off pests, and naturalize (multiply) without fuss. Daffodils contain alkaloids deer and rodents dislike, so they rarely get eaten. Crocus and grape hyacinth push early color yet require almost no care once planted. Alliums deter browsers with onion‑scented foliage while adding dramatic globes later in spring. Because these bulbs store their own energy reserves, they bloom the very first season; their built‑in food supply and pest resistance eliminate two major failure points for new gardeners, turning early success into long‑term confidence.
When should I plant spring‑ and summer‑flowering bulbs, and how deep should they go?
When should I plant spring‑ and summer‑flowering bulbs, and how deep should they go?
Start by matching planting time to each bulb’s natural growth cycle. Spring‑bloomers (tulip, daffodil, hyacinth) need cold to trigger buds, so plant them in fall—when soil cools to 55 °F but before it freezes—to give roots 4–6 weeks of growth. Summer‑bloomers (dahlia, gladiolus, canna) are frost‑tender; plant after soil warms above 60 °F in mid‑ to late spring. Depth matters next: a simple rule is two to three times the bulb’s height—e.g., a 2‑in. tulip bulb sits 4–6 in. deep. Planting too shallow risks frost heave and animal damage; too deep can exhaust stored energy before shoots reach light. By aligning season and depth, you satisfy both chilling or warmth requirements and secure sturdy stems come bloom time.
How do I “layer” bulbs to create continuous blooms from early spring into summer?
How do I “layer” bulbs to create continuous blooms from early spring into summer?
Think of the planting hole as a lasagna pan: bottom layer—late‑bloomers like alliums or late tulips 8 in. deep; middle layer—mid‑season tulips or daffodils 6 in. deep; top layer—early crocus or miniature iris 3 in. deep. Staggering bloom times vertically lets each layer emerge after the previous one fades, giving six to ten weeks of color from a single spot. Add a sprinkle of bulb fertilizer between layers, back‑fill soil, and water well. Because bulbs occupy different soil strata and active periods, they don’t compete heavily for nutrients or light, yet they share the same planting effort—maximum floral return for one dig.
How can I protect bulbs from squirrels, deer, and other wildlife?
How can I protect bulbs from squirrels, deer, and other wildlife?
Begin with plant choice: daffodils, alliums, fritillaries, and snowdrops contain compounds most mammals avoid. For tasty bulbs like tulips or crocus, install a ½‑in. galvanized hardware‑cloth cage over the planting hole, then back‑fill; roots and shoots pass through, but rodents cannot dig down. Sprinkle crushed oyster shell or sharp gravel around the hole—gnawing animals dislike digging through abrasive material. Finish with a 2‑in. mulch layer to hide freshly disturbed soil (a visual cue for squirrels). Above‑ground, spray a rotating scent‑based repellent every two weeks while shoots emerge; combining resistant genetics, physical barriers, and scent confusion closes the loopholes wildlife exploit.
Can I grow bulbs successfully in containers, and what special care do they need?
Can I grow bulbs successfully in containers, and what special care do they need?
Yes—containers let you force early blooms or add portable color. Choose a pot at least 10 in. deep with drainage holes. Fill with a loose, peat‑based mix amended with 20 % sharp sand for drainage. Plant bulbs at the same depth rule (2–3 × their height), crowding them slightly closer than in beds for a fuller show. Chill requirement: most spring bulbs need 12–16 weeks at 35–45 °F; place the pot in an unheated garage or refrigerator, keeping soil just moist. After chilling, move it to 50–55 °F light for shoot emergence, then into bright sun. Water when the top inch dries and feed with half‑strength liquid fertilizer once shoots are 2 in. tall. For summer bulbs, skip chilling but provide consistent warmth and weekly feeding. With the right pot, mix, and temperature sequence, container bulbs flower as reliably as those in the ground while adding flexibility to decks, patios, or indoor displays.