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Sienna Francis House Landscaping Project

Sienna Francis House Landscaping Project - Nature Hills Nursery

Whitney Laritson |


Nature Hills Nursery, King Green Landscaping, and Sienna Francis House Team Picture

Last year, the Sienna Francis House reached out to us to see if we were willing to help them redo their entrance to the women's shelter. The entrance didn't look the greatest and they felt it needed to be redone. They have a lot of ladies living there that liked to garden and were interested in doing more. We thought that this would be a great way to give back to the community, so we reached out to our friends at King Green Landscaping to see if they would be interested in helping. They thought this would be a great project to do with us, and offered to help. We provided the plants and they provided the expertise and manpower to get this project done the right way. When talking to Stephanie at the Sienna Francis House, we decided that an edible landscape would be nice to have for the residents, as they do not typically get much fresh fruit donated. We also determined that planting a butterfly pollinating garden would be good for the environment. King Green came up with a plan on how we could combine both.

It was a very busy day as there were others out putting on a new roof! First, we cleared out the grass that was there.

Removing the grass Next, we had to put the plants where they needed to go and applied mulch around them:

Planting and applying mulch. Then we watered thoroughly:

Watering

Here are a few images of how it turned out. In all, we planted five blueberry bushes, five raspberry bushes, five blackberry bushes, three currant bushes, three compact cranberry plants, three sand cherry shrubs, three standing ovation serviceberries, and nine strawberry plants. In addition to those edible plants, we planted seventeen butterfly milkweed plants, twelve salvia, nine goldenrod, nine rudbeckia, and four Joe Pye weed plants. We will provide a follow-up post to this next year when the plants are hopefully starting to produce some fruit!

Pollinator Garden

Raspberries, Blackberries, and Blueberries

Strawberry Bed

Here is a list of plants we used in case you would like to learn more about them: Duke Blueberry Autumn Bliss Raspberry Black Satin Blackberry Butterfly Weed Plant May Night Salvia Goldsturm Black Eyed Susan Pawnee Buttes Sand Cherry Alpine Currant American Cranberry Standing Ovation Service Berry Little Joe Pye Weed, and Ozark Beauty Strawberry

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Frequently Asked Questions

Which plants grow best in the soil and sun conditions found around the Sienna Francis House?

The specific soil composition and sun exposure at the Sienna Francis House were not detailed in our project documentation, but the plants selected were carefully chosen to thrive in the Omaha, Nebraska region, which falls in USDA Hardiness Zone 5b. The edible selections, including Duke Blueberry, Autumn Bliss Raspberry, Black Satin Blackberry, Alpine Currant, and Ozark Beauty Strawberry, are all well-suited to Midwest growing conditions with adequate sun and well-drained soil. The pollinator plants, including Butterfly Weed, May Night Salvia, Goldsturm Black-Eyed Susan, and Little Joe Pye Weed, are native or well-adapted species that thrive with minimal amendments in average garden soil. If you are gardening in a similar region, start with a basic soil test and choose from this same plant list for reliable, low-maintenance results.

How often should I water new plantings at the Sienna Francis House site during hot or dry Nebraska summers?

Newly installed plants like the blueberries, serviceberries, and perennials at the Sienna Francis House site should be watered deeply two to three times per week during hot or dry Nebraska summers, which fall in USDA hardiness zones 5b to 6a. Each watering session should saturate the root zone to a depth of 6 to 8 inches, encouraging roots to grow downward rather than staying shallow. Morning watering is ideal, as it reduces evaporation and helps foliage dry before evening, limiting disease pressure. Keep a close eye on soil moisture during the first growing season, as this establishment period is critical, and add a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around plants to retain moisture between waterings.

How do I test and improve my soil before starting a landscaping project like the Sienna Francis House?

Testing your soil before a major landscaping project is a smart first step that can make or break your results. Purchase an inexpensive soil test kit or send a sample to your local cooperative extension office, which will give you a full breakdown of pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels. Most fruiting plants like the blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries used at the Sienna Francis House prefer a slightly acidic pH between 4.5 and 6.5, so amend accordingly with sulfur to lower pH or lime to raise it. Once you have your results, work amendments into the top 12 inches of soil at least two to four weeks before planting to give nutrients time to integrate properly.

Which native or drought-tolerant plants are easiest to maintain in a Nebraska landscape like this one?

For a Nebraska landscape, several plants used in this Sienna Francis House project are excellent low-maintenance choices. Butterfly milkweed, goldenrod, and Black-Eyed Susan are all native prairie plants that thrive in Zones 4-8, tolerate drought once established, and require little more than annual cutbacks in late fall or early spring. Pawnee Buttes Sand Cherry is another standout, staying compact at 18-24 inches tall while handling Nebraska's dry summers with minimal intervention. Start with these natives as your backbone plantings and add edibles like serviceberries and currants once your pollinator foundation is in place.

What should I plant in full sun, partial shade, or deep shade areas around a historic property like the Sienna Francis House?

For full sun areas, the plants used at the Sienna Francis House offer great inspiration, including butterfly milkweed, black-eyed Susan, salvia, and goldenrod, all of which thrive in direct sun and support pollinators. Edible options like blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries also perform best with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. For partial shade spots, serviceberries and alpine currants are excellent choices that tolerate reduced light while still producing fruit. Visit naturehills.com to browse each plant's individual page for specific hardiness zone requirements, mature size, and planting timing to match the right plant to every corner of your property.

How do I choose plants that will survive Nebraska winters and reliably return each spring?

Choosing plants that survive Nebraska winters starts with selecting varieties rated for USDA hardiness zones 4 through 6, which covers most of the state. Cold-hardy performers like Standing Ovation Serviceberry, Pawnee Buttes Sand Cherry, Alpine Currant, and native perennials such as Goldsturm Black-Eyed Susan, Goldenrod, and Butterfly Weed are proven survivors in the region and will reliably return year after year. Planting in early fall or spring gives roots time to establish before temperature extremes hit, and applying 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the root zone provides critical insulation through freeze-thaw cycles. Browse naturehills.com and filter by your specific zip code zone to find vetted varieties guaranteed to thrive in your area.

How can I reduce weeds in my planting beds without harming newly established plants?

Applying a 2 to 3 inch layer of wood chip or shredded bark mulch around your newly planted shrubs and perennials is one of the most effective ways to suppress weeds while retaining soil moisture. Keep the mulch pulled back about an inch from the base of each plant stem to prevent rot and discourage pests. For new plantings, hand-pulling any weeds that do emerge is safer than hoeing, which can disturb shallow roots. Refresh your mulch layer each spring to maintain weed suppression as the material naturally breaks down over time.

What should I do if deer, rabbits, or other wildlife are damaging plants in my landscape?

Protecting plants from deer, rabbits, and other wildlife often requires a layered approach combining physical barriers and repellents. For young shrubs and berry bushes like blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries, wire fencing or tree tubes offer reliable protection, especially during the first one to two growing seasons when plants are most vulnerable. Apply a scent-based repellent such as a predator urine or capsaicin spray around the perimeter of your planting beds every two to three weeks, and after heavy rainfall. For long-term results, consider incorporating naturally deer-resistant plants like salvia, goldenrod, or Joe Pye weed as a border around more vulnerable edible plantings.

When is the best time to prune the shrubs, perennials, and ornamental grasses used in this type of landscape?

For fruiting shrubs like blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries, late winter or early spring pruning while plants are still dormant is ideal, typically February through March in most growing zones. Ornamental perennials such as salvia, rudbeckia, goldenrod, and Joe Pye weed can be cut back to about 4 to 6 inches in early spring before new growth emerges, though leaving them standing through winter provides important habitat and food for birds and beneficial insects. Sand cherry and serviceberry shrubs are best pruned right after they finish flowering in spring to avoid cutting off next year's buds. Start with your fruit shrubs in late winter, tackle perennials as soon as you see new growth pushing up from the base, and save any flowering shrub pruning until blooms have fully faded.

Why are my plants not blooming, and what steps can I take to encourage more flowers?

Plants often fail to bloom due to insufficient sunlight, improper pruning timing, or lack of nutrients, particularly phosphorus, which supports flower development. Many flowering plants like salvia, rudbeckia, and butterfly milkweed require at least six hours of direct sun daily to bloom reliably. If you pruned shrubs or perennials too late in the season, you may have removed next year's flower buds. Feed plants with a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer in early spring, ensure they are sited in adequate sunlight, and deadhead spent blooms regularly to encourage continuous flowering throughout the season.