Beginner Gardening: Pruning, Planting & More

Want a Beautiful Garden But Don't Know Where to Start?

Starting a garden can feel overwhelming, but we promise you, you can do this! Whether you're planting flowers, shrubs, or trees, this beginner-friendly guide will teach you the basics of plant care. These short, simple tips are written for new gardeners and packed with the best plant care keywords to help you get growing with confidence!

Important #ProPlantTips
Gardening Basics
Watering Info
Why Mulch Is Important
Specific Plant Quick Tips:
Annuals
Perennials
Flowering Shrubs
Evergreen & Broadleaf Shrubs
Roses
Trees
Fruit Trees & Shrubs
Lawns
Bulbs
Start Small, Grow Big!

What You'll Learn:

If you're new to gardening, you're in the right place!

Below you'll find helpful sections covering how to plant, water, prune, and care for everything from fast-blooming annuals to long-lasting trees. We've broken it down by plant type so you can take it step by step and learn at your own pace.

Every expert gardener once started right where you are. Let this be your first step toward a yard full of flowers, fruit, and pride. We believe in you, and Nature Hills is here to help every step of the way!

Important #ProPlantTips

Here is a comprehensive list of links to Important #ProPlantTips on common new gardener questions and concerns:

All About Your USDA Growing Zone
All About Fertilizer - Learn more here
How to Prune - a comprehensive guide
All About Full Sun, Part Sun, and Shade
Proper Site Selection - know where to plant before you plant it
Your local County Extension Office has tons of area-specific information for you!
Learn about Frost Dates and why they matter!
Complete Spring To-Do Checklists
Complete Fall Clean-Up Checklists
Weed Control
Winter Plant Protection
Summer Heat Plant Protection
Quick Garden Start Tips & Easy Plants For Beginners

Gardening Basics

Watering Info

Not sure if it's time to water? Stick your finger in the soil:

If the top 1-2 inches are dry, it's time to water.
Always water deeply so roots grow down, not just stay near the top.
Avoid watering in the hot afternoon sun.
Watch the Finger Test in Action!

Knowing when to water is just as important as how much!

Morning is best: Watering early helps plants soak up moisture before the heat.
Avoid late evening: Damp leaves overnight can lead to disease.
Check the soil: Use the Finger Test to avoid overwatering.
Water at the base: Keeps leaves dry and helps prevent fungus and disease.
Deep and less often: Encourages strong drought-resistant root systems over time.

Why Mulch Is Important

Mulch isn't just pretty—it helps your plants thrive:

Holds moisture in the soil
Keeps roots cool in summer and warm in winter
Prevents weeds from growing
Use bark, wood chips, straw, or pine needles.
Keep mulch 3-4 inches deep, but away from stems and trunks.
Why Mulch Matters

Specific Plant Quick Tips:

Annuals: Quick Color, Big Impact

Annuals are plants that bloom for one season, then fade when frost hits. Think Petunias, Marigolds, and Zinnias.

Planting: Wait until after the last frost—plant in good soil with compost.
Watering: Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Use the Finger Test
Fertilizing: Feed every 2-4 weeks with a bloom booster. Annuals love additional liquid fertilizer, keeping them blooming right up until frost!
Deadheading: Remove faded flowers to keep them blooming.
Pinching Back: Trim early to make plants bushier. Pinching back also makes older plants less leggy and fuller.
Mulch: Spread 3-4 inches of arborist mulch out around your plants.

Perennials: Come Back Every Year

Perennials return year after year. Think Coneflowers, Black-Eyed Susan's, and Daylilies.

Planting: Spring or fall is best because temps are cooler and rain is more available.
Watering: Regular water until established, then water when the soil is dry 1-2 inches below the surface or during long drought/dry spells. Again, use the Finger Test.
Fertilizing: Feed in early spring with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 formula).
Deadheading: Snip off spent blooms to encourage more flowers.
Pinching Back: In spring, cut back a bit to keep plants tidy. In summer after the first flush of flowers, you can pinch back again to create more bushiness and therefore more flowers later on.
Dividing: Every few years, dig up and split large clumps to keep plants healthy. Read in-depth Dividing Perennials Here.
Find the complete Perennial Planting and Care Guide here.
Mulch: Spread 3-4 inches of arborist mulch out around your plants.

Flowering Shrubs: Structure and Blooms

Flowering shrubs like Lilacs, Hydrangeas, and Spireas add beauty and color to your garden.

Planting: Spring or fall. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball.
Watering: Deep water once a week. More in heat or drought.
Fertilizing: Use a shrub fertilizer in early spring.
Deadheading: Some flowering shrubs benefit from removing old blooms.
Pruning:

Know if your shrub blooms on old wood (last year's growth) or new wood (this year's growth).
Old wood bloomers (like Lilacs): Prune right after flowering.
New wood bloomers (like Panicle Hydrangeas): Prune in late winter or early spring.
Read in-depth Flowering Shrub pruning - old wood vs new wood

Renewal Pruning: Needed for most shrubs every 3-5 years. Removing entire old stems out at the ground of some shrubs helps revitalize them. New growth takes its place for bigger blooms, more fall color, and more vigorous growth. Read our Renewal Pruning Guide Here.
Avoid high nitrogen: Too much nitrogen = lots of leaves, few blooms. This also means high nitrogen fertilizers around flowering plants near your lawn.
Mulch: Spread 3-4 inches of arborist mulch out around your plant's entire root system.

Evergreen & Broadleaf Shrubs: Year-Round Green

Evergreen shrubs, like Juniper and Yews, and broadleaf evergreen shrubs like Boxwood, Holly, and Rhododendrons, keep their leaves all year.

Planting: Spring or fall. Choose locations with good drainage.
Watering: Deep water weekly until established.
Winter Watering: Because evergreens keep leaves all winter, the chances of wind burn and frost burn are high. Water your shrubs very, very well in the autumn before the ground freezes.
Fertilizing: Use slow-release evergreen fertilizer in spring (acid-loving plant fertilizer).
Pruning: Lightly prune to shape in early spring after the first flush of new growth (like Yews, or Junipers)or after blooming if it is a flowering broadleaf evergreen.
Mulching: Helps keep roots cool and prevents water loss.
Winter Protection:

Wrap shrubs in burlap
Tie up shrubs for support in heavy snow load areas to keep them from falling flat
Spray the foliage with an anti-desiccant like Wilt Stop to prevent burn from the icy air and drying northern winds.

Learn How to Choose The Right Shrub Here!

Roses: Classic Elegance and Fragrance

Roses are timeless and come in many types, including hybrid teas, shrub roses, and climbing roses.

Planting: Choose a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Good air flow helps prevent disease.
Watering: Water deeply at the base 1-2 times a week. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilizing: Use rose food starting in early spring and reapply every 4-6 weeks until late summer.
Pruning: In late winter or early spring, prune dead, weak, or crossing canes. Cut at a 45-degree angle above an outward-facing bud.
Mulching: Keep roots cool and moist with 2-3 inches of mulch, but don't pile it against the canes.
Air Circulation: Don't crowd Roses (or most plants). Give them some shoulder room for air flow. This prevents powdery mildew and other foliage issues.

Trees: The Garden's Shade & Height

Trees provide shade, height, structure, and seasonal beauty.

Planting: Spring or fall. Dig wide, not deep. Keep the root flare above the soil. Read this in-depth Guide about Proper Planting Depth Here.
Watering: Deep water using the Finger Test, especially the first 1-2 years.
Fertilizing: Use tree food in early spring. Don't overdo nitrogen.
Trunk Protection: Wrap young trees in winter to prevent cracking. Read the Complete Guide For Trunk Protection here.
Staking: A good stake supports the straight trunk growth of new trees. Staking is important if your location is windy, but remove it after 1-2 years. Check the ties often to ensure they are not cutting into the bark. Read all about Staking Young Trees Here.
Suckers & Water Sprouts: Remove from base and branches to keep tree healthy.
Avoid high nitrogen on flowering trees—like Crabapples or Redbuds—to protect bloom set.
Mulch: Spread 3-4 inches of arborist mulch out around your tree's entire drip line.
Controling Suckers and Water Sprouts

Fruit Trees & Shrubs: For Tasty Harvests

Want fruit? Start with sun-loving plants like Apples, Blueberries, or Raspberries. Edible landscaping (adding fruiting shrubs and trees to your regular landscaping plants) is all the rage, and these flowering/fruiting plants pull double-duty with your curb appeal! Find More Fruiting Plant Success Tips Here!

Read How To Plant Fruit Trees here!
Sunlight: Most fruit plants need 6-8 hours of full sun daily. This encourages more flowers, which therefore create more fruit, bigger fruit, and more flavorful fruit!
Watering: Regular watering helps fruit grow big and sweet!
Fertilizing: Use fruiting plant fertilizer in early spring. Read More Here!
Thinning: Remove extra fruit early to help the rest grow bigger and better.
Pruning: Late winter is best for shaping and air flow.
After Fruiting: Clean up fallen fruit and prune lightly if needed.
Learn About Fruit Tree Pollination & Pollination Partners Here

Lawns: Green and Gorgeous

A healthy lawn takes a little effort but makes a big impact.

Watering: Water early in the morning, deeply 1-2 times per week.
Mowing: Mow at least once a week to keep your lawn healthy.
Fertilizing: Use slow-release lawn food in spring and fall.
Weed Control: Apply weed & feed products or pull weeds by hand.
Seeding/Overseeding: Best done in fall or early spring to thicken grass.

Bulbs: Easy Color From Below

Bulbs are underground powerhouses that bring big color in small packages.

Fall-planted/Spring-flowering bulbs(like Tulips, Daffodils, and Hyacinths) are planted in the fall, before the ground freezes. These need cold weather to bloom.
Spring-flowering/Summer-flowering bulbs (like Dahlias, Gladiolus, and Lilies) are planted in spring after the last frost.
Planting Depth: As a rule of thumb, plant bulbs 2-3 times as deep as they are tall.
Watering: Water after planting, then keep lightly moist during growth. Don't overwater dormant bulbs.
Fertilizing: Use bulb food or a balanced fertilizer at the time of planting and again in spring when shoots appear.
After Flowering: Deadhead spent flowers, but keep the leaves. Let the leaves yellow and die back naturally before removing. This makes food for the bulb for next year.

You've Got This, Gardener! Start Small, Grow Big!

Starting a garden might feel like a lot at first, but with a little care, love, and help from Nature Hills Nursery, you can grow anything!

Every green thumb starts somewhere. With each plant you care for, you're building beauty, peace, and joy right in your own yard. Let's grow something great together!

Happy Planting!

Dewitt Tree Support Stake Kit

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can you use 10-10-10 fertilizer on roses?

Yes, 10-10-10 is a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer that can be used on roses, but it is not always the ideal choice. Roses are heavy feeders that often benefit more from a fertilizer with a higher middle number (phosphorus) to support blooming, such as a 5-10-5 or a formula made specifically for roses. If you do use 10-10-10, apply it sparingly in early spring as new growth begins, following label directions carefully to avoid root burn. For best results, consider switching to a rose-specific fertilizer mid-season to maximize flower production.

Can you plant roses in the summer?

Yes, you can plant roses in summer, but you'll need to take extra precautions to help them establish in the heat. Container-grown roses from Nature Hills are your best option for summer planting since their root systems are already developed and less prone to transplant shock. Water deeply at the base every 2 to 3 days during the first few weeks, and apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base to retain soil moisture and keep roots cool. Avoid planting during heat waves or when temperatures consistently exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and aim for a cloudy day or cooler stretch of weather to give your new roses the best start.

Can you plant roses in July?

Yes, you can plant roses in July, but success depends on your location and how well you manage the heat. Container-grown roses from a nursery are your best option for summer planting, since their root systems are already established and less vulnerable to transplant shock. Avoid planting during heat waves, water deeply at the base every day for the first few weeks, and apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the root zone to retain moisture and keep soil temperatures stable. Plant in the early morning or evening when temperatures are cooler, and give your new rose some light shade protection during the hottest part of the day if temperatures regularly exceed 90 degrees.

How much of a plant can you safely prune at one time without causing damage?

As a general rule, never remove more than one-third of a plant's total growth in a single pruning session, as taking more can stress the plant and slow recovery. For most shrubs and trees, this means trimming back no more than one-third of the canopy or stems at one time, and for hard-pruned plants like roses, late winter or early spring just before new growth emerges is the safest window. If a plant needs significant reshaping, spread the work over two to three growing seasons rather than tackling it all at once. Visit our comprehensive pruning guide at naturehills.com to learn the right timing and techniques for your specific plant type.

Should you prune spring-flowering shrubs before or after they bloom?

Spring-flowering shrubs like lilacs, forsythia, and azaleas set their flower buds on old wood from the previous season, so pruning before they bloom will remove those buds and cost you a full year of flowers. Always wait until just after the blooms fade, typically within 2 to 4 weeks of flowering, before picking up your pruners. This gives the shrub the entire remaining growing season to develop new wood and set next year's flower buds. Prune lightly to shape, removing no more than one-third of the plant at a time, and you will be rewarded with a healthy, full display season after season.

Should you prune summer-flowering shrubs in late winter or early spring?

Yes, summer-flowering shrubs like Butterfly Bush, Rose of Sharon, and Crape Myrtle bloom on new wood grown in the current season, so pruning them in late winter or early spring is exactly the right time. Wait until you see the first signs of new bud swell, typically when nighttime temperatures stay consistently above freezing in your zone, before making your cuts. Trim stems back by one-third to one-half their length to encourage vigorous new growth and a fuller shape. Visit naturehills.com for our complete pruning guide to get timing and technique details specific to the shrubs in your yard.

How do you know if a plant blooms on old wood or new wood?

The easiest way to determine if a plant blooms on old wood or new wood is to note when it flowers. Plants that bloom in early spring, like lilacs and forsythia, typically flower on old wood grown the previous season, meaning you should prune them right after they finish blooming. Plants that bloom in mid to late summer, like crape myrtles and butterfly bush, flower on new wood produced in the current season, so prune them in late winter or early spring before growth begins. When in doubt, check the plant tag, your Nature Hills product page, or contact your local County Extension Office for region-specific pruning timing.

How do you prune a neglected or overgrown shrub without damaging it?

Rejuvenating an overgrown shrub takes patience, and the safest approach is to spread the work over two to three years rather than cutting everything back at once. In late winter or early spring, before new growth begins, remove no more than one-third of the oldest, thickest stems at ground level each year, which encourages fresh growth without sending the plant into shock. For most flowering shrubs, aim to make clean cuts just above a healthy bud or lateral branch using sharp, sanitized pruners. Visit our comprehensive pruning guide at naturehills.com to learn the right timing and technique for your specific shrub type, and always check your USDA hardiness zone to confirm the best pruning window for your region.

How long does it take for a newly planted tree or shrub to establish?

Most newly planted trees and shrubs take one full growing season per inch of trunk caliper to establish, so a 2-inch caliper tree may need two full years before it is truly self-sufficient. During this establishment period, consistent deep watering is critical, typically 1 to 2 inches of water per week at the root zone. Once established, most trees and shrubs become significantly more drought-tolerant and require far less intervention. Focus your first two years on proper watering, a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch to retain moisture, and avoiding heavy fertilization that pushes tender growth before the roots are ready.

How do you fertilize roses for the best blooms?

Roses are heavy feeders that benefit from a balanced fertilizer applied in early spring when new growth emerges, then again after each bloom cycle throughout the season. Use a fertilizer formulated specifically for roses, or a balanced granular blend like 10-10-10, following package rates to avoid burning roots. Stop fertilizing about 6 weeks before your first expected fall frost so new growth has time to harden off before winter. Visit our fertilizer guide at naturehills.com to find the right product for your roses and get started this season.

Pruning, Planting & Fertilizing: A Beginner's Checklist