How to Plant a Container-Grown Tree | Nature Hills – Tagged ""

You ordered your tree, it arrived at your door in great shape, and now you are staring at it wondering how to give it the best possible start. Good news: planting a container-grown tree is straightforward, and getting it right takes about 30 minutes. The steps below work for any container-grown tree, shrub, or large perennial you buy from Nature Hills.

A close-up of a worker in a greenhouse wearing green and black gardening gloves, carrying a healthy green plant in a black plastic nursery pot.

Why Container-Grown Is Different

Every plant from Nature Hills ships container-grown, meaning it has been growing in a pot with an established, intact root system. This is a major advantage over field-dug or bare-root stock:

No transplant shock. The roots are intact, not cut or dried out.
Wider planting window. You can plant any time the ground is not frozen.
Faster establishment. Roots start growing into the surrounding soil immediately.

That said, there are a few things you need to do differently with container-grown stock. Follow these steps for the best results.

Before You Dig

Overhead view of a young tree positioned in a wide planting hole with a shovel leaning against the side, demonstrating proper planting depth.

Choose the Right Spot

Read the plant tag or product page for sun requirements. "Full sun" means 6 or more hours of direct sunlight. "Partial shade" means 3-6 hours. Get this right from the start because moving a tree later is no fun.

Check for Utilities

Call 811 (the national "Call Before You Dig" hotline) before you break ground. Utility lines can be surprisingly close to the surface, and hitting one is dangerous and expensive.

Think About Mature Size

A 3-foot sapling planted 4 feet from the house will become a problem when it reaches 20 feet wide. Plant according to the mature size listed on the product page. Your future self will thank you.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

A close-up shot of a gardener’s hands adding fresh dark compost and soil around the root ball of a new shrub being planted in a garden.

Step 1: Dig the Hole

Dig the hole 2-3 times wider than the container but only as deep as the root ball. The bottom of the hole should be firm, undisturbed soil so the tree does not settle too deep over time. Rough up the sides of the hole with your shovel so roots can penetrate easily.

Common mistake: Digging too deep. If the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) ends up below the soil line, the tree will struggle. Planting slightly high is always safer than planting too deep.

Step 2: Remove From Container and Loosen Roots

Tip the container on its side and slide the plant out. If it is stuck, squeeze the sides of the pot or cut it away. Never yank the tree out by the trunk.

Once the root ball is free, examine the roots. If they are circling tightly around the outside (pot-bound), gently score the root ball with a knife in 3-4 places from top to bottom, about an inch deep. Then tease the outer roots loose with your fingers. This tells the roots to grow outward into the soil instead of continuing to circle.

Step 3: Position in the Hole

Set the root ball in the hole and check the height. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. In clay soil or areas with poor drainage, plant 1-2 inches high to improve drainage.

Make sure the tree is straight. Step back and look from two angles. Adjust now because it is much harder once you have backfilled.

Step 4: Backfill With Native Soil

Fill the hole with the same soil you dug out. Do not amend the backfill with potting mix, peat, or compost in the planting hole itself. Why? Amended soil in the hole acts like a bathtub, holding water around the roots while the surrounding native soil stays dry. Roots stay in the "good" soil and never grow outward.

Backfill in layers, tamping gently with your foot to eliminate air pockets. Do not stomp hard enough to compact the soil.

Step 5: Water Deeply

As soon as the hole is filled, water slowly and thoroughly. Let the hose run at a trickle at the base of the tree until the soil is soaked to the bottom of the root ball. This settles the soil, eliminates remaining air pockets, and gives the roots immediate access to moisture.

Build a small berm (raised ring of soil) around the outer edge of the planting hole to create a watering basin. This keeps water from running off and directs it straight to the roots.

Step 6: Mulch

Spread 3-4 inches of organic mulch (shredded bark, wood chips, or arborist mulch) over the entire root zone. Keep mulch 4-6 inches away from the trunk. Mulch piled against the trunk ("mulch volcano") traps moisture against the bark and invites rot and pests.

Mulch does three critical things: conserves soil moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses weeds that compete with the tree for water and nutrients.

First 30 Days: What to Watch For

Water deeply 2-3 times per week (less if it rains). Use the finger test: stick your finger 2 inches into the soil near the root ball. If it is dry, water. If moist, wait.
Some leaf drop is normal. Container-grown plants sometimes drop a portion of their leaves as they adjust to the new site. New growth will follow.
Do not fertilize yet. Let the roots establish for 4-6 weeks before feeding. Fertilizer pushes top growth that the root system cannot yet support.
Do not prune anything except broken or damaged branches. The tree needs all the leaves it has to photosynthesize and push new root growth.

First Year Care Calendar

Season	Priority
Spring (planting)	Plant, water deeply 2-3x/week, mulch
Summer	Maintain watering (increase in heat waves), check mulch depth, begin light fertilizing after 6 weeks
Fall	Continue watering until ground freezes, refresh mulch if thin, do NOT prune (let the tree go dormant naturally)
Winter	Water during warm, dry spells (yes, even in winter), protect trunk from deer/rabbit browse with a wrap if needed

#ProPlantTip: The Mulch Volcano Warning

This might be the most important landscaping tip you will ever read: never pile mulch against the trunk of a tree. Those mulch volcanoes you see everywhere are slowly killing the trees they surround. Moisture trapped against bark causes rot, fungal infection, and attracts boring insects.

Pull mulch back to create a 4-6 inch clearance ring around the base of every tree and shrub you plant. The mulch ring should look like a donut, not a volcano.

Ready to Plant?

Browse Nature Hills' full selection of container-grown Trees and Shrubs ready to ship to your door. Every plant arrives with an established root system and is backed by our quality guarantee.

Green Giant Arborvitae

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Emerald Green Arborvitae

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Rating

(51)

Type

Tree

Nature Hills Nursery

Flower Color

Green

Green

Growing Zone Range

5-8

4-8

Mature Height

40-50 ft

15 ft

Width

8-12 ft

4 ft

Price

From $17³²

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to plant a container-grown tree?

The best time to plant container-grown trees is during their dormant season in fall (6-8 weeks before hard frost) or early spring (after last frost but before bud break). Fall planting is ideal in zones 6-9 because it allows roots to establish before summer heat stress, while gardeners in zones 3-5 should favor spring planting to avoid winter damage to newly planted trees. Container trees can technically be planted year-round since their root systems are intact, but avoid planting during extreme heat or when the ground is frozen. Plan your planting when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more consistent to give your tree the best start.

How often should I water a newly planted container-grown tree in the first year?

Water newly planted container-grown trees deeply 2-3 times per week during the first growing season, providing 1-2 inches of water each time. In hot summer months (zones 7-9), you may need to increase frequency to every other day, while cooler northern zones (3-6) typically require less frequent watering. Check soil moisture by inserting your finger 2-3 inches into the ground around the root zone. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, focusing on the root ball area rather than the entire yard.

What size container or pot do I need for planting a container-grown tree?

You don't need a new container - your tree arrives ready to plant directly in the ground from its nursery pot. The planting hole should be 2-3 times wider than the existing container but only as deep as the root ball to prevent settling. Plant your container-grown tree any time the ground isn't frozen, giving you a much wider planting window than bare-root stock. Simply remove the tree from its nursery container and transplant it directly into your prepared hole.

Does the container need drainage holes, and how do I ensure proper drainage?

The containers we ship in have proper drainage holes, but you'll remove the container entirely before planting. For proper drainage in your planting site, avoid areas where water pools after rain and amend heavy clay soils with compost to improve water movement. If your site has drainage issues, plant the tree slightly higher than ground level or create a raised planting area 2-3 inches above the surrounding soil. Test drainage by digging a hole, filling it with water, and ensuring it drains within 24 hours.

What type of soil or potting mix should I use for a container-grown tree?

You don't need special soil or potting mix when planting a container-grown tree in the ground. Use the existing native soil from your planting hole, as amending it can create a "bathtub effect" where roots circle instead of spreading into surrounding soil. If your native soil is extremely poor or heavily compacted clay, mix in no more than 20-30% compost with the existing soil. Plant directly into your native soil for the strongest, most adaptable root system.

How do I remove a container-grown tree from its nursery pot without damaging the roots?

To remove a container-grown tree from its pot, first water the plant thoroughly to keep the root ball intact. Turn the container on its side and gently squeeze the sides while pulling the tree out by the base of the trunk, not the branches. If the tree is stuck, tap the bottom of the pot or run a knife around the inside edge to loosen compacted roots. Once removed, gently tease apart any circling roots with your fingers before planting.

Should I loosen or cut circling roots on a container-grown tree before planting?

Yes, you should address circling roots before planting your container-grown tree. Gently tease apart any roots that are circling the root ball with your fingers, or make 3-4 vertical cuts about 1/4 inch deep from top to bottom of the root ball if the roots are severely bound. This prevents the roots from continuing to grow in circles, which can eventually girdle and kill the tree. Always handle the root ball carefully to maintain the established root system that gives container-grown trees their advantage.

How deep should I plant a container-grown tree to avoid it being too deep or shallow?

Dig the hole only as deep as the root ball itself, ensuring the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) sits at or slightly above ground level. The bottom of the hole should be firm, undisturbed soil to prevent the tree from settling too deep over time. Make the hole 2-3 times wider than the container to give roots room to spread laterally. Check that the root flare is visible after backfilling - if it's buried, remove soil until it's exposed.

How wide and deep should the planting hole be for a container-grown tree?

Dig the planting hole 2-3 times wider than the container but only as deep as the root ball itself. The bottom should rest on firm, undisturbed soil to prevent the tree from settling too deep over time. Rough up the sides of the hole with your shovel to help roots penetrate into the surrounding soil. Avoid the common mistake of digging too deep, which can bury the critical root flare where the trunk widens at the base.

Can I amend the backfill soil with compost or mulch when planting a container-grown tree?

While the provided article doesn't cover soil amendments, it's generally best to backfill with native soil rather than adding compost or other amendments when planting container-grown trees. Amended backfill can create a "bathtub effect" where roots circle within the improved soil instead of spreading into the surrounding native soil. If your soil is extremely poor, work compost into a much larger area (3-5 times the root ball width) rather than just the planting hole. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch on top of the soil after planting instead.

How to Plant a Container-Grown Tree: Step-by-Step Guide