Something's off with your arborvitae and you're trying to figure out what it is. Whether it's chewed-up foliage, bare patches, heavy snow damage, or just a tree that's not thriving the way it should, arborvitae problems almost always trace back to one of a handful of common causes. The good news: most of them are preventable, and the ones that aren't are usually fixable if you catch them early.
This guide covers the most common arborvitae issues beyond browning, from deer browsing to winter storm damage to nutrient deficiencies, with specific prevention strategies and the best varieties for avoiding trouble in the first place. If your arborvitae is specifically turning brown, see our in-depth diagnostic guide to arborvitae browning for cause-by-cause troubleshooting.
Deer Damage on Arborvitae
Deer consider arborvitae a five-star buffet. They browse the lower branches in winter when other food is scarce, stripping foliage from the ground up to about 5-6 feet (as high as they can reach). The damage is unmistakable: ragged, torn branch tips where deer have ripped away foliage rather than cutting it cleanly the way insects or disease would.
Heavy deer pressure can strip the lower half of a hedge bare, leaving a row of trees that look fine from 6 feet up and completely naked below. Unlike some forms of arborvitae damage, deer browse on evergreen foliage is often permanent. Arborvitae don't regrow foliage from bare wood the way deciduous shrubs do, so once the lower branches are stripped, they stay bare.
Prevention: Physical barriers work best. Deer netting or fencing around your arborvitae during winter is the most reliable protection, especially for newly planted trees that haven't grown above browsing height. Deer repellent sprays (Liquid Fence, Plantskydd, or similar products) help but need reapplication every 2-4 weeks and after heavy rain. Rotate between products so deer don't habituate to a single scent.
Best variety for deer-prone areas: Green Giant Arborvitae (Thuja standishii x plicata, Zones 5-8, 40-60 ft. tall, 12-18 ft. wide) has natural deer resistance that most other arborvitae varieties lack. While no plant is completely deer-proof, Green Giant is consistently rated as one of the most deer-resistant screening conifers available. Its rapid growth rate of 3-5 feet per year also means it outgrows browsing height quickly.
Snow and Ice Damage
Heavy wet snow and ice storms can splay open arborvitae, pulling branches apart from the central leader and leaving the tree looking like it was hit by an explosion. Multi-stemmed varieties and globe forms are especially vulnerable because they lack a single strong central trunk. Once branches are bent out of shape under snow load, they may not spring back to their original form.
Ice is worse than snow. The weight of ice on evergreen foliage can snap branches outright, and the damage is immediate and permanent. Columnar varieties with tight, upright branching handle ice better than spreading or globe forms because the branches support each other.
Prevention: After a heavy snowfall, gently brush snow off your arborvitae with a broom (sweep upward so you're lifting snow off, not pushing branches down). Never shake a tree that's coated in ice. You'll snap frozen branches. For trees in heavy snow zones (zones 3-5), tie the branches loosely with soft twine or wrap in burlap before winter to hold the canopy together.
Best varieties for snow country: North Pole Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis 'Art Boe', Zones 3-7, 10-15 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide) has a tight columnar habit that sheds snow naturally and holds its form under load. Emerald Green Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd', Zones 3-7, 12-15 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide) also handles snow well due to its narrow, compact silhouette.
Windburn and Winter Desiccation
Cold, dry winter winds pull moisture out of arborvitae foliage faster than frozen roots can replace it. The result is desiccation: foliage dries out and turns brown, usually on the side of the tree facing prevailing winds. This is especially common in zones 3-5 where winter winds are persistent and temperatures stay below freezing for weeks at a time.
Windburn looks alarming but it's usually not fatal. The damaged foliage won't turn green again, but the tree pushes new growth from the branch tips in spring to fill in the gaps. Most arborvitae recover fully from a single winter burn event. Repeated windburn year after year, though, can weaken a tree and thin out the canopy permanently.
Prevention: Water your arborvitae deeply in late fall before the ground freezes so the tree enters winter fully hydrated. Apply an anti-desiccant spray (Wilt-Pruf or similar) in late November. For exposed sites, install a burlap windscreen on the windward side of the tree, keeping the burlap 6-12 inches away from the foliage so air still circulates. Do not wrap the tree tightly in plastic. That traps moisture and creates a different set of problems.
Green Giant Arborvitae handles wind exposure better than most varieties thanks to its dense branching structure and vigorous growth. In exposed sites in zones 5-8, it's the first variety to consider.
Bagworms
Bagworms are one of the few arborvitae pests that can actually kill a tree. The caterpillars build small cone-shaped bags (1-2 inches long) out of silk and bits of foliage, then feed on the tree from inside these portable shelters. A heavy infestation can completely defoliate an arborvitae, and because evergreens can't regrow foliage on bare branches, the damage is permanent once the needles are gone.
Bagworms are most active from late May through August. The bags are easiest to spot in fall and winter when they hang like small ornaments from the branches. Each bag can contain 500-1,000 eggs, so a few bags this year become a major infestation next year if left untreated.
Prevention and treatment: Inspect your arborvitae in late fall and hand-pick any bags you find. Drop them in a bucket of soapy water to kill the eggs. For larger infestations, spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) in late May or early June when the young caterpillars are emerging and actively feeding. Timing is critical with Bt: it works on small larvae but becomes ineffective once the caterpillars are larger and sealed inside their bags. Scout your trees weekly from late May through June so you can catch them early.
#ProPlantTip: Green Giant Arborvitae has measurably better bagworm resistance than Thuja occidentalis varieties like Emerald Green. If bagworms are a recurring problem in your area, choosing Green Giant for new plantings eliminates the issue before it starts.
Improper Planting Depth
Arborvitae planted too deep are slowly suffocated. When the root flare (the point where the trunk widens into the root system) is buried under soil or mulch, moisture accumulates around the trunk and creates conditions for bark rot and root suffocation. The tree may look fine for a year or two, then decline mysteriously as the roots deteriorate underground.
How to check: Gently scrape away soil at the base of your arborvitae until you find the root flare, the point where the trunk starts to widen. If the trunk goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole with no visible flare, the tree is planted too deep.
The fix: For recently planted trees (within the last 1-2 years), carefully excavate and replant at the correct depth with the root flare at or slightly above soil level. For established trees, remove excess soil and mulch from around the trunk base. Create a gradual slope away from the trunk so water drains outward rather than pooling against the bark.
When planting new arborvitae, dig the hole the same depth as the container but 2-3 times wider. The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Never bury the trunk. Container-grown arborvitae from Nature Hills arrive with the root flare properly positioned in the container, so matching the container soil level to your ground level gives you the right depth.
Nutrient Deficiencies
Arborvitae are not heavy feeders, but severely depleted soil shows up as yellowing foliage, slow growth, and an overall thin, lackluster appearance. Iron deficiency causes yellowing on new growth (chlorosis), while nitrogen deficiency shows as pale green to yellow foliage across the entire tree.
Nutrient problems are most common in very sandy soils (nutrients leach out quickly), highly alkaline soils (iron becomes unavailable above pH 7.5), or where trees are competing with lawn grass for resources.
The fix: A soil test from your local extension office (typically $15-25) tells you exactly what's missing. Don't guess with fertilizer; excess nitrogen causes soft, leggy growth that's more susceptible to pests and winter damage. For most arborvitae, a balanced slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) applied once in early spring provides everything they need. For iron chlorosis in alkaline soils, use chelated iron or acidifying amendments like sulfur to lower the pH.
Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch (shredded bark, wood chips) around the root zone each spring. As the mulch breaks down, it adds organic matter to the soil, improves water retention, and provides a slow trickle of nutrients. Keep mulch 3-4 inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup against the bark.
Seasonal Needle Drop: When Brown is Normal
Every fall, arborvitae shed their oldest interior needles. The inner canopy turns brown and drops while the outer foliage stays green. If you're seeing interior browning that's evenly distributed throughout the tree during September through November, you're almost certainly looking at normal seasonal needle drop, not a problem.
"Evergreen" means the tree always has green foliage, not that every needle lives forever. Arborvitae replace their oldest interior growth annually, just like deciduous trees drop leaves, except evergreens do it on the inside where it's less obvious. First-time arborvitae owners frequently panic at seasonal needle drop and start watering frantically or spraying fungicides, neither of which is necessary.
How to confirm it's normal: If the outer canopy is green, the tree is producing new growth at the tips, and the browning is limited to the interior on older wood, it's seasonal needle drop. Leave it alone. You can gently shake dead needles out of the canopy if they bother you, but the tree is perfectly healthy.
Best Arborvitae Varieties for Problem-Free Landscaping
Choosing the right arborvitae for your zone and site conditions prevents most problems on this list before they start. Here are the top picks based on real-world performance:
Green Giant Arborvitae (Thuja standishii x plicata, Zones 5-8, 40-60 ft. tall, 12-18 ft. wide) is the best all-around choice for large screens and hedges. It grows 3-5 feet per year, resists deer browsing, handles wind exposure, and has natural bagworm resistance. Space 5-6 feet apart for a solid privacy screen within 3-4 years.
Emerald Green Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd', Zones 3-7, 12-15 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide) is the pick for cold climates (zone 3) and narrow spaces. Its compact columnar form fits where Green Giant won't. Space 3-4 feet apart for a dense hedge. Provide wind protection in exposed northern sites.
North Pole Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis 'Art Boe', Zones 3-7, 10-15 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide) holds its form under heavy snow, making it ideal for northern landscapes where ice and snow load are primary concerns. It's also one of the most cold-hardy cultivars available.
Spring Grove Arborvitae (Thuja plicata 'Grovepli', Zones 5-7, 30-40 ft. tall, 10-15 ft. wide) is an excellent alternative to Green Giant where you want a similar look in a slightly smaller package. Dense, dark green foliage and good deer resistance.
Thin Man Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis, Zones 3-7, 15-20 ft. tall, 4-5 ft. wide) offers the narrow footprint of Emerald Green with faster growth and better height. A strong choice for tight property lines where you need quick screening without width.
Browse the full Arborvitae Trees and Arborvitae Shrubs collections at Nature Hills to find the right fit for your zone, space, and landscape goals.
Arborvitae Care Calendar
Early spring (March-April): Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10). Refresh mulch to 2-3 inches. Check for winter damage and prune any broken branches back to healthy green growth.
Late spring (May-June): Begin weekly bagworm scouting. Water newly planted trees 2-3 times per week (deep and slow, 30-45 minutes with a soaker hose). Established trees need supplemental water only during dry spells.
Summer (July-August): Watch for spider mites during hot, dry weather. Look for stippled, bronzed foliage and fine webbing. A strong spray from the garden hose every few days disrupts mite colonies. Continue watering newly planted trees through the first two full growing seasons.
Fall (September-November): Don't panic at interior needle drop. Give trees a deep watering in late fall before the ground freezes. Apply anti-desiccant spray to trees in windy or exposed locations. Reapply deer repellent if browsing is a concern in your area.
Winter (December-February): Gently brush heavy wet snow off arborvitae with an upward sweeping motion. Do not shake ice-coated trees. Check burlap wraps and tighten any loose ties. Inspect for bagworm bags and hand-pick while the tree is dormant.
Keep Your Arborvitae Thriving
Most arborvitae problems come down to three things: wrong variety for the site, planting too deep, or not enough water in the first two years. Get those three right and your arborvitae will reward you with decades of dense, green screening that only gets better with age.
Every arborvitae from Nature Hills ships as a healthy, container-grown plant with an intact root system ready to establish in your landscape. Skip the guesswork and start with quality stock from the Arborvitae collection at Nature Hills.
