#ProPlantTips - Should You Prune in the Fall?

Nature Hills Nursery | February 14, 2026

Fall is here! While you are taking care of your Fall cleanup checklist, don’t skip an important garden chore that some plants require! Fall Pruning!

Pruning In The Fall
Pruning This Fall - Why or Why Not
Plants That Showed Disease/Pest Issues
Warm-Season Ornamental Grass
Spring-Planted Bulbs
To Prune or Not to Prune

Not all plants need a fall haircut, but for some - it is essential!

Nights will start getting cooler and some plants have already started shutting down for the year anyway. Seedheads that can make messes and self-sow, or branches that hold disease, insect, or fungal issues need to be removed now before they can become bigger problems in the future.

Pruning In The Fall

Depending on your plants and where you live, it is usually recommended that you not prune plants in the autumn - with a few exceptions...

Perennials and Grasses in cold climates benefit from having the foliage intact, not only to protect their crowns but also to provide winter interest as their seed pods or dried flowers sculpt the snow and feed birds and wildlife!

A plant’s crown (where the stem meets the roots) usually sits at, slightly above, or slightly below the soil line, and this is the point where all new growth will emerge in the spring. The dead foliage provides insulation and protects the crown from frost and chill.

There are a few plants that need, or even benefit from getting pruned in the autumn after frost has killed back the top growth. It is a necessity when it comes to preventing disease, and very helpful to remove any obstacles that may inhibit fresh spring growth.

But as mother nature always has exceptions to her own rules, here are the plants that do benefit from a fall haircut!

Pruning This Fall - Why or Why Not

Trees, Shrubs & Fruiting Plants

Trees, shrubs, and fruiting plants won’t need pruning until either late winter, or after they’ve flowered and fruited. Evergreens will not need pruning in the autumn either.

Herbaceous Perennials

While most Perennials do not need pruning in the autumn, certain Perennials do need to be pruned. Include those susceptible to powdery mildew, disease, or insects while others can be invasive or just self-seed. Typically pruning for some of these plants is fine in areas where the climate is milder and has less chance of winter damage. In colder regions, it may be best to not prune so the plants catch the snow, and if there is winter damage - then that damage will simply be removed with spring pruning.

Especially trim back your plants if your autumn has been cool and wet - which is a breeding ground for fungal issues and diseases!

Perennials to prune include -

Astilbe
Bearded Iris
Bee Balm
Blackberry Lily
Catmints
Columbines
Corydalis
Crocosmia
Daylilies
Gaillardia (Blanket Flowers)
Hosta
Penstemon
Plume Poppy
Salvia
Siberian Bugloss
Solomon's Seal
Tall Garden Phlox (not Creeping Phlox)
Veronica (Speedwell)
Yarrow - can start looking ragged

Prune by removing the stems close to the ground and all foliage, and dead flowers from the area. Let these plants die down from a heavy frost or two and then remove all of the old foliage and stems. Discard for sanitation purposes, prevent pests and disease issues at bay, and keep snails or slugs from having a place to overwinter.

Herbaceous Peonies

Peony plants need to be completely pruned to the ground in the autumn and all the stems and leaf litter removed from the area and disposed of. Some suggest pruning in September if the plants are heavily mildewed. Tree Peonies are woody plants and should remain intact and not pruned.

Annuals & Vegetables

Annuals, seasonal accents, and vegetable garden plants and herbs that are done for the year, are all best dug or pulled and the entire plants bagged or taken to a yard waste site away from your property. This includes all of the foliage, fallen fruit, and stems should all be removed from the area and disposed of. Remember what was planted where and rotate your crop next spring for the best results.

Annual flowers typically have gone to seed by now (or earlier) and to prevent self-seeding, remove the seed heads as the flowers fade to encourage new blooms during the growing season, then any remaining in the autumn can be removed with the entire plant once it dies. Now is a great time for seed savers to save seeds for next year!

Plants That Showed Disease/Pest Issues

Good sanitation by removing spent leaves and broken stems that showed signs of powdery mildew, insect infestation, disease, or other issues that year. These issues could overwinter in the debris and arise worse next year!

Warm-Season Ornamental Grass

We suggest leaving most Grasses standing for fall and winter. Why not enjoy the movement and incredible attributes they add to the fall and winter landscape? Cutting grasses down in the fall can sometimes expose the cut hollow stems to more rainfall which might allow more water to the crowns of the plants and cause them to rot. There are a couple of exceptions like the Pampas Grasses or Switchgrasses that can drop grass blades and blow around all winter. If you find that is true, trim back the tops to remove much of the messier parts.

Spring-Planted Bulbs

Flowering bulbs form roots in the fall before going dormant, so the green foliage is very important for making food and storing energy for the next year’s blooms. So leave the green leaves intact until they turn yellow, and then you can trim the old leaves to the soil making room for other plants in your borders.

Anemone
Begonia
Caladium
Calla Lily
Canna Lily
Crocosmia
Dahlia
Elephant Ears
Freesia
Gladiola
Gloriosa Lily
Liatris
Lilies
Naked Lady/Belladonna Lily
Nerine Lily
Peacock Orchid
Pineapple Lilies
Ranunculus
Tuberose (Tuber Rose)

To Prune or Not to Prune

Pruning is one of those chores at the end of growing season that won’t have you wondering how you’ll get it all accomplished before the snow flies! Trust us, there will be plenty of other garden chores to get done this fall.

Head over to the Nature Hills website and find everything you need to make this coming spring the very best one yet!

Happy Planting!

Check out our entire Garden Blog for information on Pruning almost anything in your garden!

Previous Next

Frequently Asked Questions

Should you cut back perennials in the fall or leave them standing through winter?

Most perennials are best left standing through winter, as their dead foliage insulates the crown from frost and their seedheads provide food for birds and visual interest in the garden. However, perennials that showed signs of powdery mildew, disease, insect damage, or invasive self-seeding should be cut back in fall to prevent those problems from carrying over into next season. In colder climates, even disease-prone perennials may benefit from being left until spring, since the foliage catches snow and offers extra crown protection. As a general rule, wait until late winter or early spring to cut back most perennials, and reserve fall pruning only for plants with confirmed pest, disease, or aggressive spreading issues.

How do you prune perennials in the fall without damaging next year's growth?

When pruning perennials in the fall, wait until after frost has killed back the top growth, then cut stems down to about 3 to 4 inches above the soil line to protect the crown. In colder regions (zones 4 and below), it is often better to leave foliage intact through winter, as it insulates the crown and catches snow for added protection, then prune in early spring. Always remove any stems or foliage showing signs of disease, powdery mildew, or insect damage regardless of your zone, and dispose of this material rather than composting it. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a slight angle to reduce moisture buildup on the remaining stem.

Which plants should you avoid pruning in the fall?

In general, trees, shrubs, fruiting plants, and evergreens should not be pruned in the fall, as they are best tended in late winter or after they have flowered and fruited. Most herbaceous perennials, especially in colder climates, also benefit from skipping fall pruning, since their dead foliage acts as insulation to protect the crown from frost damage and provides winter interest for birds and wildlife. Leave ornamental grasses and perennials with attractive seedheads standing through winter in cold regions, and save any necessary pruning for early spring before new growth emerges.

Should you cut back phlox in the fall or wait until spring?

Phlox is susceptible to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases, making fall cutback a smart choice to prevent those issues from overwintering and spreading next season. In milder climates, go ahead and cut stems back to just a few inches above the ground after frost kills the top growth. In colder regions, you may want to leave some foliage in place to insulate the crown and catch snow for added protection, then finish cleanup in spring. Either way, always dispose of any diseased foliage rather than composting it to keep problems from recurring.

Do annuals come back after you cut them down in fall?

Annuals complete their entire life cycle in one growing season and will not return after being cut down or killed by frost, regardless of pruning. Unlike perennials, they must be replanted each year from seed or transplants. Once frost has finished them off in fall, go ahead and pull the spent plants entirely from your beds, dispose of any disease-affected material, and add healthy plant debris to your compost pile to prep your garden for next season.

How do you know which perennials to prune in fall versus spring?

Most perennials are best left alone in fall, as their dried foliage and seed heads insulate the crown, feed wildlife, and add winter interest. However, perennials that showed signs of powdery mildew, fungal disease, or pest problems during the growing season should be cut back in fall to prevent those issues from overwintering and spreading. In colder climates, even disease-prone plants may benefit from delayed pruning, since the remaining foliage catches snow and protects the crown from frost damage. When in doubt, wait until spring and remove only what was damaged over winter.

Should you deadhead cranesbill geraniums in the fall?

Cranesbill geraniums are hardy perennials that generally do not require fall deadheading, as their foliage and seed heads provide valuable winter interest and insulation for the crown. In colder climates (zones 3-5), it is best to leave the foliage in place through winter to protect the plant and remove it in early spring instead. If your cranesbill showed signs of powdery mildew or pest issues during the growing season, trim it back in fall to prevent those problems from carrying over. Dispose of any diseased clippings in the trash rather than the compost pile.

Is alyssum a perennial you can cut back in fall, or should you treat it as an annual?

Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is technically a tender perennial but is grown as an annual in most parts of the country, particularly in zones 1 through 8. Since it typically dies out with the first hard frost, there is no need to schedule a deliberate fall pruning the way you would with a true perennial. Simply pull spent plants after frost kills them and add them to your compost pile, or leave them in place since alyssum self-seeds readily and may return on its own next spring. If you garden in zones 9 through 11 where it overwinters, you can shear it back by about one-third in fall to encourage fresh, compact growth.

What happens if you prune shrubs too late in the fall?

Pruning shrubs too late in fall can stimulate new tender growth that has no time to harden off before winter, leaving it vulnerable to frost damage and dieback. This is especially risky in zones 3 through 6, where hard freezes can arrive suddenly and severely. For most shrubs, it is best to hold off on any significant pruning until late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins, or to prune immediately after flowering for spring-blooming varieties.

How far back should you cut perennials in the fall?

For most perennials, cutting back to about 3 to 4 inches above the soil line in fall is the standard approach, but only do this for plants prone to disease, powdery mildew, or invasive self-seeding. In colder climates (zones 5 and below), it is often better to leave perennial foliage intact through winter, as the dried stems insulate the crown and provide critical frost protection. Wait until late winter or early spring to cut back the remaining growth once the worst cold has passed. Focus your fall pruning on problem plants only, and let the rest stand until spring cleanup begins.