5 Brilliant Native Plants for the Southern Midwest

Whitney Laritson | February 14, 2026

With hot, dry summers, the Southern Midwest has some incredible drought-tolerant plants that are native to the area, which are sure to make your landscape look even more stunning in the hot summer months. Today, we'll talk about five native plants from the Southern Midwest United States. Native plants are defined as plants that have been established in a given area for hundreds of years.

This definition is often paired with a geographic location, like the Southern Midwest United States. It is challenging to pinpoint an exact geographical boundary, as plants do not follow the same boundaries people do, so we will just limit it to the southern portion of the Midwest in general - zones 6 through 11.

Evergreen - Eastern Red Cedar
With small blue berries on the female trees, Eastern Red Cedar is a wildlife favorite. The shreddy red bark, often obscured by the branches until you get up close and personal to it, provides an interesting contrast while providing nesting materials. Growing up to 40 feet tall at maturity, Eastern Red Cedar is ideal for screening and protecting your property.

Deciduous Tree - Bald Cypress
At first glance, Bald Cypress looks like an evergreen in the spring and summer. With light green-feathered foliage, reddish-brown bark, and soccer-ball-shaped seed pods, bald cypress makes an interesting addition to any landscape.

But the interesting thing about Bald Cypress is that, come fall, the leaves shed, and the tree becomes the origin of the common name. A stunning tree at full maturity, bald cypress can reach up to 65 feet high, and will be sure to be an interesting talking point in your landscape.

Shrub - Coralberry
If you have ever wanted to have pink colors in your landscape in the winter, Coralberry is the shrub for you. Small pink fruits persist throughout the winter months, giving you something other than the evergreens and dormant plants to admire.

While not edible, they do make a beautiful addition to any cut flower arrangement. In the summer, the bright green foliage contrasts with the small pink flowers. Planted individually or in masses, results in a stunning display year-round.

Flowering Perennial - Liatris
Also known as Gayfeather, Liatris is a perennial that will not be ignored in the summer months. Tall purple flowers demand attention, and the green foliage provides that contrast necessary to make that purple pop. Planted in full sun, Liatris will reach up to two feet tall when flowering, making it a beautiful addition to any landscape.

Grass - Northern Sea Oats
The flat seed heads of Northern Sea Oats dance in the summer breeze above bamboo-like foliage. A spreading grass, northern sea oats will provide both summer interest with the seedheads before turning a glowing gold in the fall. The seedheads are favored by birds and also make a unique addition to a cut-flower arrangement. Dead-heading the grass before the seeds spread will help to prevent the spread of this grass.

Each of these plants would be an interesting addition to any landscape. Because they are native to the Southern Midwest, they are ready to withstand the hot, dry summers that are characteristic of that region.

To see our favorite native plants for other regions, check out these articles:

Native Plants for the Northeast

Native Plants for the Southeast

Native Plants for the Upper Midwest

Native Plants for the Southwest

Native Plants for the Northwest

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Frequently Asked Questions

Which of the five featured native plants will perform best in my specific combination of sun exposure, soil type, and moisture level?

The best native plant for your conditions depends on your specific site, but here is a quick guide: Eastern Red Cedar and Liatris both thrive in full sun with dry, well-drained soils across zones 6 through 11, making them top choices for hot, exposed spots. Bald Cypress tolerates wet or even flooded soils and is ideal if you have a low-lying or poorly drained area, growing up to 65 feet tall at maturity. Coralberry is the most adaptable shrub of the group, handling part shade and a range of soil types while still delivering year-round color. Visit naturehills.com to use the plant detail pages, which list specific sun, soil, and moisture requirements, so you can match each plant precisely to your growing conditions before purchasing.

Should I plant these Southern Midwest natives in spring or fall for the strongest root establishment?

Spring planting is generally the better choice for Southern Midwest natives like Liatris, Coralberry, and Eastern Red Cedar, as the warm soil temperatures in zones 6 through 11 give roots several months to establish before summer heat arrives. Fall planting can also work well for woody plants like Bald Cypress and Eastern Red Cedar, since cooler temperatures reduce transplant stress and rainfall tends to be more consistent. Avoid planting in the peak of summer when the region's notorious heat and drought conditions put unnecessary stress on newly establishing root systems. For best results, plant in early spring after the last frost or in early fall at least six weeks before the first expected frost, and water deeply and regularly through the first growing season.

How deep and wide should I dig the planting hole when installing native perennials, shrubs, or grasses from container stock?

When planting native perennials, shrubs, or grasses from container stock, dig a hole two to three times wider than the container but no deeper than the root ball itself. Planting at the correct depth is critical, as setting the root ball too deep can cause crown rot and establishment failure. Backfill with the native soil you removed, firm it gently to eliminate air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the roots in place.

Should I choose local ecotypes, straight species, or nativars of these Southern Midwest natives for the best long-term garden performance?

For most home gardeners in zones 6 through 11, straight species selections of these Southern Midwest natives offer the best balance of ecological function and long-term resilience, as they retain the full genetic adaptations that allow plants like Liatris and Eastern Red Cedar to thrive through hot, dry summers without extra intervention. Local ecotypes are the gold standard if you can source them, particularly for large-scale plantings or restoration projects, since they are genetically matched to your specific regional conditions. Nativars can offer appealing traits like compact size or extended bloom color, but some show reduced wildlife value, which matters especially for fruiting plants like Coralberry and Eastern Red Cedar that birds rely on through winter. Start by sourcing straight species from a reputable nursery, ask about regional provenance when available, and reserve nativars for spots where a specific ornamental trait, like winter color or size constraint, genuinely solves a design problem.

How do I design a planting with these five natives so the garden looks intentional and polished rather than wild and overgrown?

Anchor your design with the tall structural elements first: place Eastern Red Cedar (up to 40 feet) or Bald Cypress (up to 65 feet) at the rear or corners of your space to create a backdrop, then layer Coralberry shrubs in the mid-ground as a defined mass rather than scattered individuals. In the foreground, group Liatris in bold drifts of five or more plants so the two-foot purple flower spikes read as a deliberate statement rather than random color. Repeating each plant in odd-numbered clusters and maintaining clear sightlines between layers is what separates a polished native garden from an unplanned one. Start with your trees in fall for best establishment in zones 6 through 11, then fill in shrubs and perennials the following spring.

Which of these five featured natives will do the most to support pollinators, songbirds, and other backyard wildlife?

All five plants offer wildlife value, but Liatris (Gayfeather) and Coralberry stand out as top performers. Liatris blooms in summer and is a magnet for butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, while its seed heads feed goldfinches and other songbirds well into fall. Coralberry produces persistent pink fruits through winter that many bird species rely on when food is scarce. For maximum wildlife impact, plant Liatris in full sun masses alongside a Coralberry hedge to provide both seasonal nectar and year-round shelter and food for your local wildlife.

How do I transition a section of lawn to native plants without triggering a weed explosion in the first season?

Smother the lawn area in late summer or early fall by covering it with cardboard topped by 4 to 6 inches of wood chip mulch, which cuts off light to existing weeds and grass without tilling and bringing dormant weed seeds to the surface. Leave this sheet mulch in place for at least one full growing season before planting, or plant directly into the mulch layer in spring by cutting small openings just large enough for your root balls. In zones 6 through 8, starting this process in August or September gives you a clean planting window the following May when native plants like Liatris or Coralberry are ready to go in the ground. Keep that mulch layer refreshed to 3 inches throughout the first season to suppress any opportunistic weeds that do manage to push through.

What pest, disease, or deer pressure should I expect with these Southern Midwest natives, and how do I handle problems when they appear?

One of the greatest advantages of growing native plants like Eastern Red Cedar, Bald Cypress, Coralberry, and Liatris in zones 6 through 11 is their natural resistance to most regional pests and diseases. Eastern Red Cedar can develop cedar-apple rust, so avoid planting it near apple trees, and Coralberry may attract aphids in summer, which you can knock back with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Deer will occasionally browse Coralberry and Liatris, so protect young plants with fencing or apply a deer repellent in early spring before new growth emerges. Focus on proper planting and watering during the first two growing seasons to build strong root systems, as healthy established natives are far better equipped to shrug off any pest or disease pressure on their own.

How does care for these native plants change between the first growing season and after they are fully established?

During the first growing season, all five of these Southern Midwest natives require regular watering to help roots establish, even though they are ultimately drought-tolerant plants. Once established, typically after one to two full growing seasons, supplemental irrigation can be reduced significantly or eliminated entirely, as these plants are adapted to the hot, dry summers of zones 6 through 11. For best results, water deeply once or twice a week during the first season, then transition to watering only during extended dry spells of two weeks or more once the plants are settled in.

Can any of these five Southern Midwest natives thrive in containers, raised beds, or compact urban yards?

Coralberry and Liatris are your best bets for containers, raised beds, and compact urban settings, as both stay relatively small and manageable compared to the Eastern Red Cedar and Bald Cypress, which can reach 40 and 65 feet respectively. Liatris in particular thrives in well-drained raised beds across zones 6 through 11, reaching only about two feet tall when flowering, making it ideal for tight spaces. Coralberry works beautifully as a massed planting in urban yards or large containers, offering year-round interest with summer blooms and winter berries. Start with Liatris in a raised bed with full sun and excellent drainage, and pair it with Coralberry along a border for a low-maintenance native display that performs across the Southern Midwest.