GreatMyrtle™ Crapemyrtles

Breeders selected GreatMyrtle™ cultivars for earlier bloom, umbrella‑shaped canopies, and superior cold tolerance. Each introduction is trialed for multiple seasons; only those that flower weeks ahead of standard Lagerstroemia indica and maintain dense branching without heavy pruning are released. Because they bloom on new wood, they keep producing color from mid‑summer until frost, even after deadheading. This combination of extended season, showier form, and reliable performance in cooler zones sets them apart before any buying decision.

Most crape myrtles survive only to USDA Zone 7, but GreatMyrtle™ selections are root‑hardy to Zone 6 —and some to Zone 5 with protection. The plants die back to the crown when winter lows drop below 0 °F, yet vigorous new shoots emerge each spring and bloom the same year. To maximize survival north of Zone 6: plant in full‑sun, well‑drained soil; mound 3–4 in. of mulch over the root zone after the first hard freeze; and avoid late‑season nitrogen that can delay dormancy. Following these steps lets gardeners in Chicago, Detroit, or Boston enjoy crape myrtle color once thought impossible.

1) Choose the right spot: Six‑plus hours of direct sun fuels maximum flower bud set. 2) Prepare the soil: Blend 2 – 3 in. of compost into the top foot of native soil to improve drainage and fertility. 3) Plant slightly high: Set the root ball 1 in. above grade to prevent waterlogging. 4) Water deeply: For the first growing season, soak the root zone whenever the top 2 in. are dry; deep, infrequent watering encourages a broad root system. 5) Mulch lightly: A 2‑in. organic layer moderates temperature and moisture without smothering the crown. 6) Feed sparingly: Apply a balanced, slow‑release fertilizer in early spring only; excess nitrogen pushes leaves at the expense of blooms. By following this sequence—site, soil, water, mulch, nutrition—gardeners create the conditions GreatMyrtle™ needs to deliver its signature heavy flower clusters.

Because GreatMyrtle™ cultivars are bred for dense branching, minimal pruning is required. In late winter or very early spring, before new growth starts, remove any dead wood and thin crossing branches to improve airflow. Avoid “crape murder” (topping), which removes the buds that form on the tips. Instead, shorten stems by no more than one‑third to shape. Summer deadheading of spent clusters can encourage a quick secondary flush of color. This light‑handed approach preserves the umbrella canopy that defines the series while keeping the plant healthy.

Yes. Select a container twice the width of the nursery pot with drainage holes. Use a peat‑based mix amended with compost for moisture retention. Water whenever the top inch dries, and fertilize lightly each spring. In Zones 7‑9, leave pots outdoors; in Zones 5‑6, shift them to an unheated garage or wrap the container with burlap stuffed with leaves to insulate roots. In the ground north of Zone 6, treat GreatMyrtle™ as a die‑back shrub: prune stems to 6 in. in late fall, mound mulch over the crown, and uncover in early spring. These steps protect roots, ensuring vigorous regrowth and blooms season after season.