Fall Planting Tips: What to Do This Autumn

What to Do When Planting in the Fall

It’s that time of year for most of the country. The weather is causing plants to go dormant. So please excuse their appearance! Right now we can almost hear them saying:

“We're old and we're tired - So plant us and leave us alone (until spring)!”

It’s fall and many plants are so done with this year! (I think a lot of us agree!) So you can understand why some trees, shrubs and perennials are being shipped to your door this time of the year without leaves and maybe looking a bit bare!

That’s because they are, like… literally … so done with this year!

What to Do When Planting in the Fall
What to Expect in the Fall!
The Nursery Environment
Planting Fall Container Plants
Happy Planting!

What to Expect from Container Plants in the Fall!

After the first few cooler nights and shorter days, plants are triggered - literally and chemically - to signal the all-stop. By now their leaves are more than ready to call it quits. That foliage has been out in the sun, beaten up by storms, hail, and rain, had a few bugs fly by and have a sample, and are well … old! They’re tired and ready to get rid of that old leafy wardrobe that’s ‘so last year’. While roots and/or stems go to sleep for a much-needed winter's rest.

Deciduous perennials, trees, and shrubs are coming out of their delivery boxes with brown spotted, tattered leaves and looking less than fall splendor-worthy. Many are already tan, brown, or bare.

New gardeners may be aghast when that potted Peony or Iris arrives as a container of stubble. Or when a pot of bare, brown sticks arrives that’s supposed to be a perennial Coreopsis or Hosta. You may think we lost our minds and just shipped you a pot of dirt!

Don’t worry! It’s dormant and a completely normal look for those plants that have been grown in pots out in the field!

Where Are My Leaves?

“Autumn shows us how beautiful it is to let things go.”

- Unknown

No, we didn’t give your perennial Bee Balm or Columbines a buzz cut to save on shipping costs! Those stems and leaves were already dead or dying, as they do anyway, naturally, whether in the ground or not. So there is absolutely no need to ship them to you!

Once your perennials go dormant, you’re going to need to prune those leaves off and dispose of them in the fall anyway.

Through a process called abscission, deciduous plants get rid of their old leaves. Very few plants and perennials, like some species of Oak, keep those brown, dead leaves on their stems all winter.

Our nurseries are busy cleaning up some of the plants that are already going dormant as we continue to ship as long as the weather allows us to! Those dormant plants are more than ready and willing to get in the ground and establish themselves in their new homes all winter.

Plants get rid of those old, dead leaves for the same reasons our nurseries are trimming perennials back once they turn yellow or tan. They’re discarding anything that might harbor disease or fungal issues, help pests over-winter in the litter, or break the plant's stems under the weight of snow! Those leaves have done their jobs for the year and its time to let them go! For herbaceous perennials, that means the stems too!

Once dormant, a perennial plant, bulb, rhizome, or shrub's energy has now been stored deep in the ground in its roots. There’s enough energy there for it to make roots all fall, through mild winters, and in the spring once the ground thaws - ready to jump out of the ground with a fresh new leafy wardrobe and bloom for you in profusion!

Shipping dead leaves and stems would be like us saying, ‘Here … You throw this away!’

The Nursery Environment

Nature Hills growers don’t pamper and coddle your landscape plant material. Your plants are grown out in the sun, rain, storms, and nature! We do this to toughen up your plants so they will be able to handle anything your garden can throw at them!

Grown under overhead sprinklers to keep them cool and watered, they may develop spots on the leaves from leaf burn in the hot sun. Have a few tatters from being whipped in the wind. The container's soil mixture and their young age also mean these plants won’t have the perfect conditions for that lovely fall color you may have bought them specifically for. So on arrival, you may be disheartened to see brown or absent leaves.

Don’t worry, a year or two in the ground will fix that!

What To Do With Your Pot of Dirt and Stems

Dormancy means that plants are shutting off moisture and nutrients going to their soft tissues in preparation for freezing temperatures, dry weather, or water and nutrient shortages. Fall dormancy in terms of herbaceous perennials means their tops have done their job for the year and are no longer working as efficiently as possible, let alone looking their best.

So it is time to dispose of them and get ready for next spring's new leaves!

Plants grown in containers and in the field typically go dormant sooner than plants in the ground, or plants in different growing zones! (PS: they may take a bit longer to come out of dormancy their first spring too!) They may also be grown somewhere colder or have different weather than your growing zone has experienced. So it’s for good reason that they arrive a little ahead of the game compared to other, established, plants in your landscape.

Without foliage to support in the fall and early spring, your plant can focus entirely on adapting to its new home, establishing a new root system beyond the confines of its pot, and acclimating so it can be ready to pop next year.

Fall Planting 101

On arrival - Soak your roots, soil, and container in a bucket until bubbles stop rising
Let drain as you prepare the planting site
Gently remove the plant and inspect the root system
Trim away circling roots and tease them to loosen
Plant at the same depth they were in their containers and backfill with native topsoil
Tamp down gently as you water it well
Continue to water until it pools, let drain, then water until pools form again
Top the root zone with a 3-4 inch layer of arborist mulch bark chips
Check daily to see if it needs water and water well until the ground freezes in your area

Maybe place a plant name tag or marker in the area so you remember what that patch of mulch with some stubble in it was. If your memory is like mine, you’ll thank yourself in the spring when you are scratching your head trying to remember what those new green leaves are supposed to be.

Good Things Do Come In Small Packages!

Nature Hills has been in business selling and shipping plants since 2001, so we know a bit about this! Let the experts calm your worries and fears when you receive your next bagged bareroot tree, or pot of soil and stubble - knowing that you have just received an established, quality plant with loads of potential next spring!

As always, if you ever have any questions or concerns about new plant material that just arrived from Nature Hills Nursery, first check the instructions that came with your new plant, or with our Planting Guide Here, or our Garden Blog for Planting Information. Then, if you still need more advice, reach out to our knowledgeable staff for everything you need to get your plant off to the best start possible!

We love photos! Do you have a transformation you’d like to show us or have a specific question about your plant? Snap a picture and send it our way! We love seeing our plants in your landscape!

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you plant trees, shrubs, and perennials in the fall?

Yes, fall is actually an excellent time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. Cooler temperatures and increased rainfall reduce transplant stress, allowing roots to establish before winter dormancy sets in. Don't be alarmed if your plants arrive looking bare, brown, or stripped of leaves, as this is completely normal seasonal dormancy and not a sign of poor plant health. Go ahead and get them in the ground, water them in well, and let them rest until spring.

What are the benefits of planting in the fall versus spring?

Fall planting gives trees, shrubs, and perennials a significant head start because cooler temperatures and autumn rainfall reduce transplant stress while roots continue to establish underground well into winter. While the tops of plants may go dormant, root systems remain active until the ground freezes, meaning your plant arrives in spring already anchored and ready to push out new growth ahead of anything planted that season. This is especially advantageous in Zones 4 through 8, where the window between summer heat and hard frost gives roots 6 to 10 weeks of prime establishment time. Plant your fall arrivals as soon as possible after delivery, water them in thoroughly, and apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base to insulate roots through winter.

What can you plant in the fall, including bulbs, perennials, shrubs, trees, vegetables, and grass seed?

Fall is one of the best times to plant a wide range of plants, including spring-flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocus, as well as hardy perennials, deciduous shrubs, and trees that benefit from cooler soil temperatures to establish strong root systems before winter. Cool-season vegetables such as kale, spinach, broccoli, and garlic thrive when planted in fall, and lawn grasses like tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass germinate well when soil temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall planting windows vary by zone, but most gardeners in Zones 4 through 8 have a solid 6 to 10 week planting window before the ground freezes hard. Focus on getting plants in the ground at least 4 to 6 weeks before your first hard frost to give roots time to establish, and mulch generously to protect them through winter.

How late in the fall can you plant before the ground freezes?

Generally, you can plant right up until the ground freezes solid, which varies widely depending on your USDA hardiness zone. In warmer zones 7 through 10, this window can extend well into December or even January, while gardeners in zones 4 through 6 typically have until late October or November. The key is giving roots at least 4 to 6 weeks to establish before the ground freezes hard. If a cold snap is coming, mulch your newly planted trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips or straw to insulate the root zone and extend your planting window.

How do you prepare soil for fall planting?

Preparing soil for fall planting starts with loosening the ground to a depth of at least 12 inches and working in a generous amount of compost or aged organic matter to improve drainage and nutrient content. Test your soil pH and amend as needed, since most trees, shrubs, and perennials prefer a range of 6.0 to 7.0. Dig your planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball to encourage roots to spread easily before the ground freezes. Finish by applying two to four inches of mulch around the base of the plant to regulate soil temperature and retain moisture heading into winter.

Should you plant container-grown plants differently in fall than in spring?

The planting process for container-grown plants is essentially the same in fall as in spring: dig your hole two to three times wider than the root ball, set the plant at the correct depth, backfill, and water in well. The key difference in fall is that you should not fertilize after planting, since you want the plant to slow down and harden off rather than push new growth before winter. Mulching around the base with 2 to 3 inches of material is especially important for fall plantings to help insulate roots against temperature swings. Focus on getting your plant settled and watered before the ground freezes, then let it rest until spring.

Do fall-planted trees and shrubs need extra mulching to survive winter?

Yes, fall-planted trees and shrubs benefit greatly from a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch applied around the base after planting, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk or stems. Mulch helps insulate the root zone from freeze-thaw cycles, retains soil moisture, and gives newly established roots a buffer as they settle in before winter. This is especially important in zones 4 through 6 where temperature swings can be severe. Apply mulch after the ground begins to cool in late fall, and extend it out to the drip line of the plant for maximum protection.

Should you fertilize when planting in the fall or wait until spring?

When planting in the fall, skip the fertilizer at planting time and wait until spring. Fertilizing in fall can stimulate new tender growth that won't have time to harden off before winter, leaving your plant vulnerable to frost damage. Instead, focus on getting your plant established with proper watering and a layer of mulch around the base to protect the roots through winter. Come spring, once you see new growth emerging, that is the right time to begin a regular fertilizing routine.

How do you water newly planted trees and shrubs in the fall?

Newly planted trees and shrubs need consistent moisture to help roots establish before the ground freezes, so water thoroughly at planting time and continue watering every 7 to 10 days until the ground freezes solid. Apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water per session, directing it slowly at the root zone to allow deep penetration rather than surface runoff. In warmer zones 7 through 10 where the ground rarely freezes, continue a regular watering schedule through winter during dry spells. Always check soil moisture a few inches below the surface before watering, and apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around the root zone to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Which plants grow best when planted in the fall rather than spring?

Many plants actually thrive when planted in fall, particularly spring-blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and alliums, which require a cold stratification period and should go in the ground 6 to 8 weeks before your first hard frost. Deciduous trees, shrubs, and perennials also establish exceptionally well in fall because cooler soil temperatures reduce transplant stress while roots continue growing until the ground freezes. Garlic, fall-bearing strawberries, and cool-season perennials like Peonies, Hostas, and ornamental grasses all benefit from fall planting since the soil is still warm enough to encourage root development before winter dormancy. Check your USDA hardiness zone and aim to get plants in the ground by mid-October in zones 4 to 6, or by late November in zones 7 to 9, to give roots the best possible head start before spring.