Tips and Tricks to Establish your New Plants in Spring and Fall

Whitney Laritson | February 14, 2026

Nature Hills offers plants two ways, container grown plants and dormant bare root plants. Let’s take a look at tips and tricks to ensure success.

Establishing Bare Root Plants

Bare root plants are shipped dormant and without any leaves and no soil on the roots! They are dug in fall after they have been exposed to frost and the plants have started to go dormant. Garden experts shake off all of the soil from the roots. Bare root plants remain dormant until they are shipped to you.

How? They are stored in a cooler with no soil on the roots (at a controlled very high humidity) just above freezing. So bare root plants can be shipped from November through the winter (in milder climates) all the way into June. All bare root plants will be carefully wrapped to keep the roots covered and moist at all times during shipment.

Soaking your bare root plants in a tub of water overnight before planting really improves success to near perfect.

Fall Planting of Bare Root Plants

Establishing a bare root plant in the fall is simple. Soak, plant, water to settle the soil in around those roots, and keep an eye on soil moisture. Remember that fall planted plants will not grow until the following spring, but the big secret is those fall planted bare root plants will produce new roots in the fall before winter comes.

Initial watering at fall planting, then a good soaking the next day, and then using the finger test to feel if the soil needs additional moisture at the roots is the BEST WAY to know if the roots are kept moist.

Plants that dry out after transplanting will actually cause some of the smallest roots to die which reduces the chances for the plants to take up the water needed to support the top of the plant. Keeping even moisture at the roots is the key to a successful transplant.

Don’t Overwater Plants – Use the Finger Test

If you just add water every day to your plants, it could cause those roots to rot which can kill the plant too. Even soil moisture is best achieved by what we call the finger test – stick your finger up to the 2^nd knuckle into the soil and feel. If it feels moist – skip water that day and if it feels dry then give a good drink.

Fall and winter bare root transplanted plants will need much less water than spring and early summer bare root plantings.

Establishing Container Grown Plants

Plants that have been grown in pots can be shipped to you dormant or actively growing, depending upon the time of the year they are shipped and the region they are grown in. Container grown plants can be shipped anytime as long as we are shipping to your area.

Container grown plants are easily slid from the pots they were grown in and can be carefully planted in the ground. Dig the hole no deeper than the pot it was growing in – but twice as wide or even more. Loosening the soil wider than the size of the pot allows the new roots to easily develop as they spread and re-establish the plant in its new home.

Getting your newly planted container plants established as quickly as possible is to your advantage:

Upon arrival at any time of the year – completely submerge your plant into a tub of water until it stops bubbling.
Then take the plant out and allow to drain while you plant. Gently loosen the soil on the bottom of the root ball to separate circling roots.
As you backfill around the root ball with the soil that was excavated from the hole be sure to again completely saturate your plants right away.
Then, use the finger test to know if your plant needs watering or not.
Know that your container plants will need much more water (attention to frequency) when the temperatures are warm and sunny in spring and summer compared to fall shipments.

Soil type, temperature, and time of the year all makes a big difference as to how much water a plant will take up. But it is not just about how much water the plant will take up – it is about keeping the roots of your newly planted plants just moist without over watering or mistakenly letting the plant dry out too much – so that your plants can start making new roots.

Roots eventually will grow to find food and water on their own. Once they start to do so, your plants become less dependent upon you for additional water when needed. It can happen in a little as a week or sometimes as much as a month or more.

New roots are most easily initiated with you being highly attentive to the soil moisture at the roots of your newly planted plants. That does not mean you just water it every day or once a week. It means you use the finger test to feel the soil daily at the start, so YOU KNOW WHEN your plans are needing additional water. As new roots form you will notice the plants will need you less frequently and that is the key.

Happy planting!

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Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals in spring versus fall?

The best time to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials is early spring or fall, when cooler temperatures and natural rainfall help roots establish before summer heat or winter cold arrives. Fall planting is especially advantageous because roots continue to develop underground even after top growth stops, giving plants a head start for spring. Annuals, however, are best planted in spring after your last frost date, since they require warm soil and active growing conditions to thrive. For any season, soak bare root plants overnight before planting, water thoroughly at installation, and use the finger test at the second knuckle to monitor soil moisture and avoid both underwatering and overwatering.

How do I prepare my soil before planting new trees, shrubs, or perennials in spring or fall?

Proper soil preparation is the foundation of successful planting in any season. Loosen the soil in your planting area to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches and mix in organic matter such as compost to improve drainage and root penetration. For bare root plants, shape a firm cone of soil in the center of the hole to support the roots and spread them naturally outward and downward. Whether planting in spring or fall, water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets, then use the finger test going forward to maintain consistent moisture without overwatering.

How do I know if my soil is warm enough and workable enough to start planting in spring?

Soil is generally ready for spring planting when it reaches at least 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of a few inches, which typically occurs when daytime temperatures have been consistently above freezing for a couple of weeks. A simple workability test is to grab a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball, then poke it with your finger. If it crumbles apart, the soil is ready. If it stays in a muddy clump, give it more time to dry out before digging, as working wet soil destroys its structure and compacts it around tender roots.

How should I handle and prepare bare root plants when they arrive before planting?

When your bare root plants arrive, the most important first step is to soak the roots in a tub of water overnight before planting, which significantly improves establishment success. The roots will be carefully wrapped to keep them moist during shipment, but that overnight soak rehydrates the roots and prepares them for transplanting. Plant as soon as possible after soaking, water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots, and then use the finger test daily to monitor soil moisture at the root zone.

How do I properly transplant a new shrub, tree, or perennial into the ground?

Dig your planting hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the plant was previously growing, ensuring the crown sits at or slightly above ground level. For bare root plants, soak the roots overnight in water before planting, then backfill the hole and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Use the finger test to maintain even moisture going forward: insert your finger two knuckles deep into the soil, and water only when it feels dry. Avoid daily watering, as overly wet soil can rot roots and kill the plant just as quickly as drought stress can.

How often should I water newly planted trees, shrubs, flowers, and vegetable seedlings while they establish?

Watering frequency depends on conditions, not a fixed schedule, so use the finger test: push your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle and water only if it feels dry. Fall and winter plantings need far less water than spring and summer plantings since cooler temperatures slow moisture loss. Overwatering is just as dangerous as underwatering, as soggy soil causes root rot while drought stress kills the tiny feeder roots plants rely on to absorb water. Check soil moisture daily at first, then taper your monitoring as your plants settle in and you learn how quickly your soil dries out.

How much water do new plants need each week during the first few weeks after planting?

The exact amount of water needed varies based on your climate, soil type, and season, so there is no single weekly measurement that applies to all situations. The best approach is the finger test: insert your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle, and if the soil feels moist, skip watering that day, and if it feels dry, give the plant a thorough drink. Keep in mind that fall and winter plantings require far less frequent watering than spring and early summer plantings. Focus on maintaining even soil moisture rather than following a fixed schedule, and never let the roots dry out completely or sit in waterlogged soil.

How can I tell if my newly planted trees or shrubs are getting too much or too little water?

The best way to monitor soil moisture for newly planted trees and shrubs is the finger test: push your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle and feel for moisture. If the soil feels moist, skip watering that day; if it feels dry, give the plant a thorough drink. Overwatering is just as harmful as underwatering, since soggy soil can cause roots to rot, while dry conditions will kill the fine feeder roots your plant needs to establish. Check soil moisture daily during the first few weeks after planting, especially during warm weather, and adjust your watering schedule based on what you actually feel in the soil rather than a fixed routine.

What steps can I take to help new plants survive heat stress or drought during the establishment period?

Keeping even moisture at the roots is the most critical factor during establishment, especially in heat or drought conditions. Use the finger test by inserting your finger to the second knuckle into the soil near the root zone, and only water when it feels dry at that depth. Avoid daily watering on a fixed schedule, as overwatering can cause root rot just as surely as drought can cause root dieback. Check soil moisture every day during heat waves and water deeply when needed to encourage roots to follow moisture deeper into the soil.

How long does it typically take for newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials to fully establish in spring or fall?

Establishment time varies by plant type, but most trees, shrubs, and perennials take one to three growing seasons to fully establish after planting. The good news is that fall-planted bare root plants get a head start by producing new roots before winter even arrives, which puts them ahead of the curve come spring. Container-grown plants planted in spring need consistent moisture through their first summer, as that first season is the most critical period for root development. Use the finger test daily during the first growing season, inserting your finger to the second knuckle to check soil moisture, and water deeply only when the soil feels dry at that depth.