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French Dark Green Scots Pine Tree
Pinus sylvestris 'French Dark Green'
Sold outRegular price $000Unit price /Unavailable -
Pyrus calleryana 'Bradford'
Sold outRegular price $12974Unit price /Unavailable -
Campsis x SUMMER JAZZ ™ FIRE 'Takarazuka Fresa'
Sold outRegular price From $14495Unit price /Unavailable -
Rubus 'Boysen Blackberry'
Sold out16% offSale price $4057 Regular price $4807Unit price /Unavailable -
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Valley Forge American Elm Tree
Ulmus americana 'Valley Forge'
Sold outRegular price $11580Unit price /Unavailable -
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Spring Snow Flowering Crabapple Tree
Malus 'Spring Snow'
Sold outRegular price $12285Unit price /Unavailable -
Salix alba tristis 'Niobe'
Sold outRegular price From $10953Unit price /Unavailable -
Ulmus parvifolia 'Drake'
Sold outRegular price $14990Unit price /Unavailable -
Ulmus parvifolia ‘UPMTF’
Sold outRegular price $14990Unit price /Unavailable -
Arctic Rose White Nectarine Tree
Prunus persica var. nucipersica 'Arctic Rose'
Sold outRegular price From $14951Unit price /Unavailable -
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Prunus persica var. nucipersica 'Snow Queen'
Sold outRegular price $14982Unit price /Unavailable
FAQ's for Buying Trees Online
What is the best time of year to plant trees for long‑term survival and growth?
What is the best time of year to plant trees for long‑term survival and growth?
Tree roots grow whenever soil temperatures remain above 40 °F. Planting in early fall (six–eight weeks before ground freeze) or early spring (as soon as soil is workable) gives roots a cool, moist window to establish before summer heat or winter freeze. In hot summer climates, spring planting may outperform fall, while in regions with mild winters, fall offers the longest root‑building period. Aligning planting season with local soil‑temperature patterns maximizes root expansion before environmental stress hits, setting the tree up for vigorous top growth in its first full season.
How do I choose the right tree species for privacy, shade, or ornamental value?
How do I choose the right tree species for privacy, shade, or ornamental value?
Begin by listing the purpose—privacy screen, summer shade, or seasonal color—then cross‑reference local climate (USDA zone), mature size, and soil conditions. For privacy, fast‑growing evergreens like arborvitae or ‘Green Giant’ thuja create dense year‑round walls. For shade, broad‑crowned hardwoods such as red maple or bur oak cast the widest canopy without brittle limbs. For ornamental flair, flowering choices like crabapple or dogwood provide spring bloom plus fall color. Matching functional goal > climate fit > site constraints prevents costly removals and ensures the chosen tree meets expectations for decades.
What critical planting steps help newly installed trees establish quickly and avoid transplant shock?
What critical planting steps help newly installed trees establish quickly and avoid transplant shock?
1) Dig the hole twice the root‑ball width but no deeper than the root collar height; trees settle if planted too deep. 2) Tease or slice any circling roots so they radiate outward, preventing future girdling. 3) Back‑fill with the native soil, amending only if drainage is poor; over‑rich back‑fill can trap roots. 4) Water slowly until the entire root zone is saturated, then apply a 2‑in. mulch ring—keep mulch 3 in. away from the trunk. 5) Stake only if wind or root‑ball instability demands it, and remove stakes after one year. This sequence balances aeration, soil contact, and moisture, speeding root growth and reducing shock.
How far should I plant trees from buildings, utilities, and sidewalks to prevent future conflicts?
How far should I plant trees from buildings, utilities, and sidewalks to prevent future conflicts?
Use the mature canopy radius (half the eventual spread) plus a 5‑ft buffer as your minimum set‑back from structures. For example, a maple expected to spread 40 ft should be sited at least 25 ft from the house. Plant small‑mature trees (under 25 ft tall) at least 10 ft from utility lines and 5 ft from sidewalks; larger trees need 20 ft and 10 ft, respectively. Avoid planting directly over buried utilities—roots infiltrate joints seeking moisture. Calculating clearances from mature dimensions, not nursery pot size, prevents costly root pruning, foundation damage, and service interruptions later.
What care routine during the first three years ensures healthy, self‑sufficient trees?
What care routine during the first three years ensures healthy, self‑sufficient trees?
Year 1: Water deeply once a week (1 in. equivalent) if rainfall is lacking; inspect mulch to maintain a consistent 2‑in. layer. Year 2: Gradually lengthen irrigation intervals to every two weeks while doubling the water volume per soak; this drives roots outward and downward. Year 3: Transition to as‑needed watering during drought—deep, infrequent soaks train drought resilience. Each spring, top‑dress with 1 in. compost at the drip line; avoid high‑nitrogen fertilizer that can force weak shoots. Remove any broken branches promptly, and perform a light structural prune in late winter of Year 3 to set strong scaffold limbs. Following this graduated water‑and‑nutrition plan builds a broad, drought‑tolerant root system and stable canopy for the decades ahead.



