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#ProPlantTips: How to Prune Hydrangeas

#ProPlantTips: How to Prune Hydrangeas - Nature Hills Nursery

Whitney Laritson |

Pruning Your Hydrangeas By Type

We’ve all been there, looking at the remnants of last year’s Hydrangea, wondering, “Do I prune these back or leave them be?”. It’s an especially confusing question because the answer depends on the type of Hydrangea you have.

It is so important to know what kind of Hydrangea you have before you do any pruning. Some Hydrangeas bloom on new growth, and others will bloom on old wood. If you prune back the latter at the wrong time, you’ll be cutting off this year’s flowers!

It is probably easiest to break down the types of Hydrangeas and suggest pruning for each of the different types. Each group of Hydrangea includes some of the selections available from Nature Hills.

Hydrangea Infographic

Panicle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)

These are a woody and particularly hardy Hydrangea variety. They love the sun and are very forgiving, overall, needing little care from you. You can’t change the color of this group, but they offer quite the show, opening white, and aging to pink or red before turning brown in early fall and winter.

Pruning for Hydrangea paniculata shrub form and tree form should be done in early spring before new growth begins. The best pruning method is to shorten the length of last year’s stems by about 1/3 (which will reduce the size of the plant and remove last year's blooms).

Leave the pruned shrub in an informal, irregular, and somewhat rounded form. The same goes for tree forms. Prune in late winter or early spring, but keep the overall rounded form. No more pruning is needed after the early spring prune.

These are a simple, easy, and certainly rewarding group of Hydrangeas that every landscape should include. Their dried blooms offer a unique texture throughout the winter and provide focal points when the rest of the garden is dormant.

Of all the varieties, these are the most commonly trained into trees. Create a show-stopping centerpiece by planting a tree form in your garden!

Our Favorite Shrub Forms:

Our favorite Tree Forms:

Oakleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia)

Native to the Southeastern United States, Oakleaf has panicle-shaped blooms that open white and age to pink and some of the new ones to red. This variety has gorgeous, large oak leaf-shaped leaves (hence the name).

These woody Hydrangeas produce flower buds on last year’s stems, so do not prune this spring group! Oakleaf Hydrangeas will not flower if you spring-prune the tips of the branches.

Light pruning to shorten branches as soon as they are done blooming can be done. You can also remove the largest, fattest branches right down to the ground to allow new shoots to grow from the ground, keeping the plant blooming wildly on those new shoots.

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Smooth Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens)

Smooth Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) have those much sought-after mophead blooms in either white, light green, or tones of pink and red. They’re native to the United States and are known for their hardiness and easy-to-care-for nature.

You should prune these Hydrangeas by cutting all of the stems right down to the ground in winter or early spring each year before they start to grow. Smooth Hydrangeas make incredible new flowers on shoots that come from the ground each year.

Some gardeners like to leave a foot or so of last year’s stems to help support the new shoots as they begin to grow, but that is up to you. Super easy, non-invasive shrubs that you simply cut off each spring and sit back and enjoy the show. Many of the newer selections are reblooming.

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Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Perhaps the most popular and widely known of the Hydrangeas, Bigleaf's blue or pink blossoms are coveted. Bigleaf Hydrangeas are blue or purple in more acidic soil, and the same plant will be pink to red in higher soil pH.

These are true statement pieces, though a little tougher to grow. It’s important to know the care basics for the cultivar you pick. Make sure to read our #ProPlantTips on each Hydrangea’s page so you know exactly what its needs are.

Many of the selections in this huge group of Hydrangeas bloom on last year’s stems, so do not prune in fall, winter, or spring; just wait until they bloom.

Pruning for Bigleaf Hydrangeas is best done right after they bloom. In colder areas, there may be some winter damage, so sit back and wait until the plant is just starting to grow. Then remove the dead tips and the old flower heads, and leave the live portion of the stems in place.

To give your Bigleaf Hydrangea the best shot in colder zones, we suggest adding a 3-4-inch layer of arborist chips or mulch around the base of your plant. This helps protect the roots from the worst of winter’s cold temperatures, along with summer’s hot. Plus, you’ll find mulch conserves water by helping to maintain moisture and reducing weeds.

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Nature Hills’ selection of Hydrangeas continues to evolve. We’re always adding new selections with more flowers, smaller plants, and reblooming capabilities – all the things that keep bringing Hydrangeas into the limelight.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Where to buy hydrangeas?

You can purchase hydrangeas from Nature Hills Nursery at naturehills.com, which offers multiple varieties including Panicle (Hydrangea paniculata), Oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia), Smooth (Hydrangea arborescens), and Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) types. Each variety has different hardiness zones and pruning requirements, so select based on your climate and garden conditions. Plant in spring after your last frost date for best establishment before winter.

How do I deadhead spent blooms on my hydrangeas after flowering?

To deadhead spent hydrangea blooms, cut the flower stem back to the first set of healthy leaves or buds, typically 6-12 inches below the faded flower head. For bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas (Zones 5-9), deadhead immediately after flowering in summer since they bloom on old wood. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas (Zones 3-8) can be deadheaded anytime through fall as they bloom on new wood. Use clean, sharp pruning shears and make cuts at a 45-degree angle just above an outward-facing leaf node to encourage bushier growth.

Where to purchase hydrangeas?

You can purchase hydrangeas directly from Nature Hills Nursery at naturehills.com, which offers multiple varieties including Panicle (Hydrangea paniculata), Oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia), Smooth (Hydrangea arborescens), and Bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) types. Each variety has different hardiness zones and pruning requirements, so identify your growing zone and desired bloom characteristics before ordering. Plant in spring after the last frost date for your area to ensure proper establishment before winter.

Where can i buy limelight hydrangeas?

You can buy Limelight hydrangeas directly from Nature Hills Nursery at naturehills.com. Limelight is a popular Hydrangea paniculata variety that's hardy in zones 3-8 and grows 6-8 feet tall and wide. These panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood with white flowers that age to pink, making them perfect for full sun locations. Order online for spring planting after your last frost date for best establishment.

How do I know if my hydrangea blooms on old wood or new wood?

The key is identifying your hydrangea type: Panicle (paniculata) and Smooth (arborescens) varieties bloom on new wood, while Bigleaf (macrophylla) and Oakleaf (quercifolia) bloom on old wood. Panicle hydrangeas have cone-shaped flower clusters and can be pruned hard in early spring, while Bigleaf hydrangeas have round, mophead or lacecap flowers that require minimal pruning to preserve next year's blooms. Check your plant tag or search the variety name online to confirm the exact species before making any cuts.

When is the best time to prune hydrangeas in spring versus fall?

The best time to prune hydrangeas depends on the type: Panicle and Smooth hydrangeas should be pruned in late winter to early spring before new growth begins, while Bigleaf and Oakleaf hydrangeas require minimal pruning and should only be trimmed immediately after flowering in summer. Fall pruning is generally not recommended as it removes next year's flower buds on old-wood bloomers and reduces winter hardiness. For spring pruning of new-wood bloomers like Panicles, cut back stems by about one-third in March or April before buds break.

What happens if I prune an old wood hydrangea too early in the spring?

If you prune an old wood hydrangea (like bigleaf or oakleaf varieties) too early in spring, you'll cut off the flower buds that formed the previous summer, resulting in no blooms for the current growing season. These hydrangeas set their flower buds on the previous year's growth during late summer and fall. Wait until after the last frost and new growth begins before doing any pruning on old wood hydrangeas, focusing only on removing dead wood and spent flowers.

Can I prune hydrangeas in winter, and is it safe?

Yes, you can safely prune certain hydrangeas in late winter, but timing and type are crucial. Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth begins, shortening last year's stems by about one-third. However, avoid winter pruning of bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) since they bloom on old wood and you'll remove this year's flowers. Always identify your hydrangea type before making any cuts to ensure proper timing.

How much can I safely prune off my hydrangea without harming it?

The amount you can safely prune depends on your hydrangea type. Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) can handle cutting back stems by about 1/3 in early spring without harm, as they bloom on new growth. Bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas should only receive light pruning of dead flowers and damaged wood, since they bloom on old wood. Always identify your hydrangea variety first, then prune accordingly to avoid removing this year's flower buds.

What type of pruners should I use for hydrangeas, and how do I make clean cuts?

Use sharp bypass pruners for stems up to 3/4 inch diameter, and loppers or a pruning saw for thicker canes. Make clean cuts at a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud or node to promote proper healing and outward growth. Always disinfect your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between plants to prevent disease spread. Clean, angled cuts heal faster and reduce the risk of rot or pest problems.

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