#ProPlantTips, Apple Tree Care, Fruit Tree Care

How Do You Select and Plant a Fruit Tree?

Whitney Laritson | February 14, 2026

Wherever you live, the basic rules for selecting and planting a fruit trees are similar. First and foremost is selecting the right variety for where you live. Many varieties of fruit are widely adaptable like the Santa Rosa Plum. But the question is: will your favorite do well in your yard?

New Varieties

Popular newer varieties like the Honeycrisp Apple or the Flavor King Pluot are the greatest, but they can be a challenge in some locations. The Honeycrisp Apple, for instance, was developed by the University of Minnesota and released in 1974. It is a fine quality apple that is perfectly suited for colder climates. However, it can be a challenge in dry climates with low humidity. In regions with low summer humidity, Honeycrisp can drop its crop with the occasional heat spikes. In drier areas, Gala would be a much better choice. With that said, the Flavor King Pluot is an outstanding plum-like piece of fruit introduced in the 1980’s by Zaiger Hybrids and is limited to areas where apricots do well. If you are unaware of apricots in your area, a selection like the Methley plum would be a better choice. The point is to make sure to pay attention to where the variety you are selecting is recommended.

Drainage

Drainage is the next consideration. The #1 reason people lose fruit trees is due to poor drainage. The problem is most often not over watering, rather suffocation in the root zone brought on by standing water throughout the wintertime. Recovery in the spring is difficult because once spring begins, irrigation begins as well. This does not allow the tree to dry out in the root zone and it struggles. In the Midwest, Northeast and South - where the rainy season extends into the summer months - a poor draining location will often never allow the tree to adapt. Some have no other choice but to plant in a location that drains poorly. In this case, a raised bed planting is recommended. The dimensions for a raised bed need not be any more than 3 x 3 x 12 inches tall and can be done with any material that will last. A simple mound can satisfy the need to elevate, but it needs to be at least 24 inches high by 4 feet wide to ensure that the mound will settle to 2 feet high.

How To Dig The Hole

Digging a hole can be the easiest task of all. The hole need not be any deeper than the depth of the root you are planting. In the case of a #3 gallon tree, the depth would only be 12 inches. The width of the hole should be 3 times the width of the root or container, and dug in a cone-like shape. Place the tree in the center of the hole (cone) cover with soil packing the root as you cover to ensure no air pockets are remaining. In most situations, there is no need to amend the soil except in the most extreme conditions where there is an obvious lack of organic material present. It is to the benefit of the tree to get established in the soil that it will live in as soon as possible. If you are planting in a raised bed whether due to poor drainage or for ornamental reasons, use native soil and don’t worry about digging a hole. Place your tree in the center of your raised bed and fill and pack.

Mulching

Mulching, in the eyes of the experts, has become one off the most important additions required to growing almost anything successfully. This is particularly the case with fruit trees. Mulch provides winter protection to the root, keeps the root cool in the heat of the summer and when regularly replenished, provides nutrients to the tree. This means that the overall expense of mulch begins to pay you back right away with a more consistent growing environment for your tree. Mulching should be done to 3 feet from the trunk after planting. This includes the raised bed when one is used. In colder climates - like those that can occur in Zone 4a through 5b - it is recommended that the mulch cover the outside of the raised bed. Place the mulch within 5 inches of the trunk of the tree and taper it away from the trunk so it does not cover it. Make sure it raises quickly to 3 to 4 inches going out to 3 feet from the newly planted tree.

Irrigation Systems

Irrigation systems for dry climates are an important addition to fruit tree maintenance. A dripline with emitters and a clock allows for the more consistent control of water distribution, making it easier to adjust watering needs throughout the year.

Container Or Bareroot?

Container or bareroot is a choice most often about timing. Bareroot is available from early January until June. The largest variety of fruit trees becomes available in the winter with the delivery of the current crop of fruit trees. Growers send one crop a year of bareroot harvested in fall and delivered throughout the winter and spring. It is now that most container fruit trees are planted up to become available as the bareroot winds down. The containers are typically available throughout the season and some will roll into the next year. Both are great choices, with containers being there anytime you are ready to plant.

Happy Planting!

Previous Next

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you plant a fruit tree step by step?

Dig your planting hole no deeper than the root ball itself (about 12 inches for a standard 3 gallon tree) but three times as wide to encourage root spread. Before planting, confirm the site drains well, since standing water in the root zone is the leading cause of fruit tree loss, and if drainage is poor, build a raised bed or mound at least 24 inches high and 4 feet wide to compensate. Choose a variety suited to your specific region, such as Gala over Honeycrisp in dry low-humidity climates, or Methley Plum where apricots struggle. Match the right tree to your conditions first, then plant at the correct depth and in well-drained soil for the best chance of long-term success.

How much does a fruit tree cost, and what affects the price?

The cost of fruit trees varies widely depending on container size, variety, and rootstock, with smaller trees in 1-3 gallon containers typically running less expensive than larger, more established specimens. Specialty or newer varieties like Honeycrisp Apple or Flavor King Pluot may carry a premium compared to tried-and-true selections like Gala Apple or Methley Plum. Visit naturehills.com to browse current pricing and filter by your growing zone to find the best-value trees suited to your specific region.

Where can you buy fruit trees online and have them shipped to your door?

Nature Hills Nursery at naturehills.com offers a wide selection of fruit trees available for purchase online and shipped directly to your door. Their inventory includes popular varieties like Honeycrisp Apple, Santa Rosa Plum, and Flavor King Pluot, with trees available in sizes ranging from 3 gallon containers and up. Visit naturehills.com to browse by fruit type, hardiness zone, or variety to find the best match for your region and growing conditions.

How much sunlight does a fruit tree need, and where should I plant it in my yard?

Fruit trees generally require a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily to produce a healthy crop, with full sun exposure being ideal for most varieties. Choose a spot in your yard that receives unobstructed southern or western exposure and avoids low-lying areas where cold air and standing water collect. Before planting, observe your chosen location throughout the day to confirm adequate sun coverage, and ensure the site has good drainage since waterlogged roots are the leading cause of fruit tree failure.

How much space does a fruit tree need at maturity, including canopy spread and root room?

Fruit tree spacing at maturity depends on the rootstock and variety, but most standard fruit trees require 15 to 20 feet between plantings to accommodate full canopy spread, while semi-dwarf trees typically need 10 to 15 feet and dwarf varieties can be planted as close as 6 to 8 feet apart. Root systems generally extend at least as wide as the canopy, so give the same consideration to underground space as you do above ground. When planning your orchard layout, measure your available space first and choose a rootstock size that fits rather than trying to prune an oversized tree into a small spot.

Should I buy a bare-root, container-grown, or balled-and-burlapped fruit tree?

Each option has its place depending on timing and your situation. Bare-root trees are typically available in late winter to early spring while the tree is dormant, they establish quickly and are often less expensive, making them a great value when planted promptly. Container-grown trees offer the most flexibility since they can be planted throughout the growing season, and a 3 gallon container tree requires a hole only about 12 inches deep and three times the container width. Choose bare-root for the best selection and value in late winter, container-grown for convenience and summer planting, and always prioritize selecting a variety rated for your specific hardiness zone over the planting method itself.

How do I know if my soil drains well enough for a fruit tree, and should I amend it before planting?

Good drainage is essential for fruit trees, as standing water in the root zone during winter is the number one reason trees fail. To test your drainage, dig a hole about 12 inches deep, fill it with water, and see if it drains within a few hours. If water lingers, avoid amending the soil in place, as this can actually create a bathtub effect, and instead build a raised bed at least 24 inches high by 4 feet wide to ensure proper settling, or construct a contained bed measuring at least 3 by 3 feet and 12 inches tall using any durable material.

How do I plant a fruit tree so the graft union stays above the soil line?

When planting a fruit tree, dig your hole only as deep as the root ball or container, which for a standard 3 gallon tree means roughly 12 inches deep. Position the tree so the graft union, the swollen knob near the base of the trunk, sits 2 to 3 inches above the surrounding soil line. Backfill with native soil and avoid mounding extra soil against the trunk, as burying the graft union can cause rootstock sprouting or graft failure. Check the union height before and after watering, since soil can settle and pull the tree down slightly in the first few weeks after planting.

Should I fertilize a fruit tree at planting time, or wait until it is established?

At Nature Hills, we generally recommend waiting until your fruit tree shows active new growth before applying any fertilizer, typically 4 to 6 weeks after planting. Applying fertilizer too soon can burn tender new roots that are still working to establish themselves in their new environment. Once the tree is actively growing, a balanced slow-release fertilizer applied according to label directions will support healthy development without the risk of root damage.

How far should I plant a fruit tree from buildings, sidewalks, fences, and power lines?

When planting fruit trees, allow a minimum of 10 to 15 feet from buildings, fences, and sidewalks for standard-sized trees, and at least 6 to 8 feet for dwarf varieties. Roots and canopy spread can damage foundations, lift pavement, and interfere with underground utilities over time. Always plant well clear of overhead power lines, keeping in mind the tree's mature height at full growth. Check with your local utility company before digging, and contact your county extension office for variety-specific spacing recommendations in your region.