Bareroot #ProPlantTips: The Best Bang for your Buck

Whitney Laritson | February 14, 2026

There are no “if,” “ands,” or “buts” about it: buying bareroot is a gardener’s best-kept secret.

They’re often passed up for the fully flushed out deciduous plants but here’s the deal, with bareroot, you’re getting just as large of a plant that ships easier, is less susceptible to damage, and costs less for you!

Back to Basics: What is a Bareroot Plant?

These are trees or shrubs that are kept in their dormant stage for shipping. Picture a leafless tree in the middle of winter and that’s a lot like what you’ll receive in the mail.

Don’t worry though, just like the trees outside in the early spring, these hardy plants are just weeks away from looking exactly like their container-grown brothers and sisters.

Alright, But Why All the Fuss?

There are so many reasons bareroot plants are superior in terms of shipping that we’ve made it simple with a list:

They’re less susceptible to damage! Uprooting these plants while they’re dormant takes full advantage of the natural toughness they use to combat harsh winters.
They cost less! For us to ship, and thus for you to buy. The packing material is lightweight, stackable, and a breeze to get from us to you.
They’re so much easier to plant! Heavy pots and soil can be a real hassle when it comes to planting so let’s take them out of the equation.
They’ll establish quicker! It’s true, plants shipped without soil often have larger root systems which means a higher success rate for you.

I’ve Heard Bareroot is Harder to Plant

It’s no harder than planting a tree that comes in a pot, we promise. As with any plant, you’ll want to get your bareroot plants in the ground as quickly as possible after it arrives on your doorstep.

Don’t get too speedy about it though, before planting it in its forever home, make sure to soak the roots in water for anywhere between 1 and 24 hours in a shady spot.

Once you take it out of its pre-planting bath, trim off any damaged roots and stick it in the hole you’ve dug for it. The hole should be big enough to accommodate the expanded root bundle without any chance of overcrowding.

Backfill in with dirt while making sure your tree is straight (crooked planting happens more often than you’d think so be careful) and water in thoroughly. Piece of Cake!

Where are the Bareroot Plants on Naturehills.com?

During bareroot season (roughly anytime from when they’re dug up in the fall all the way into June) you can find bare root plants all over our site. They’ll be listed as a size option on our plant pages.

Browse for your favorite deciduous plants and simply go for the bareroot option as you find them (they’re easier to find than eggs during your annual easter hunt).

However, if we’ve convinced you that bareroot is the best way to go, keep a lookout for bareroot options.

If you’re on the hunt for fruit specifically, you'll want to hang out in the Fruit Trees & Plants page.

Finally, if shrubs are at the forefront of your mind, we’ve got a place for you too. Check out our Shrubs and start making your garden dreams a low-cost high-reward reality! Happy Gardening!

For a more in depth walkthrough of how to plant your bareroot, check out our video:

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I plant bareroot trees, shrubs, or perennials so the roots establish quickly and do not dry out during the process?

Soak the roots in water for 1 to 24 hours in a shady spot immediately after your bareroot plant arrives, which prevents the roots from drying out and gives them a healthy head start. Dig a hole wide enough to fully accommodate the spread-out root bundle without crowding, set the plant straight, and backfill with native soil while watering thoroughly to eliminate air pockets. Get your bareroot plant in the ground as quickly as possible after its soaking bath, trim any visibly damaged roots before planting, and apply a layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture during establishment.

Should I trim or prune bareroot roots before planting, and which roots actually need to be removed?

Before planting your bareroot tree or shrub, trim off any roots that are visibly damaged, broken, or mushy after the soaking period. Healthy roots will appear firm and light-colored on the inside when nicked, while damaged roots tend to look dark, shriveled, or feel soft. Leave all healthy roots intact, as a larger root system is one of the key advantages of bareroot plants and will support faster establishment. After trimming, get your plant in the ground promptly and water it in thoroughly.

How wide and deep should the planting hole be for bareroot plants in clay soil versus sandy soil?

For bareroot plants, the hole should generally be 2 to 3 times wider than the spread of the root system and just deep enough so the crown sits at or slightly above ground level. In clay soil, err on the wider side and consider raising the plant slightly higher to improve drainage, since clay holds moisture and can suffocate roots. In sandy soil, standard depth is fine, but mix in compost to help retain moisture around the developing roots. Regardless of soil type, always soak bare roots for 1 to 24 hours before planting, trim any damaged roots, and backfill with native soil while ensuring the plant stands straight.

Should I amend the backfill soil with compost or fertilizer when planting bareroot plants, or is native soil better?

For bareroot planting, we generally recommend using your native soil as the primary backfill rather than heavily amending with compost or fertilizer. Research has shown that heavily amended backfill can actually discourage roots from expanding beyond the planting hole, since they tend to stay in the richer soil rather than pushing out into the surrounding native ground. If your soil is extremely poor or compacted, a light mix of no more than 20 to 30 percent compost blended into your native soil is a reasonable compromise. Hold off on fertilizing until you see active new growth, which signals the roots have established enough to handle the boost.

How much water do newly planted bareroot plants need during the first few weeks and throughout their first growing season?

While the article does not specify exact watering amounts, newly planted bareroot plants generally need consistent moisture to support root establishment during their first growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once or twice a week, providing roughly 1 inch of water per week through rainfall or supplemental irrigation, and increasing frequency during hot or dry spells. Check soil moisture a few inches below the surface and water when it feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil can rot developing roots, and apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around the base to help retain moisture between waterings.

How can I tell if a bareroot plant is alive and dormant versus dead after it arrives from shipping?

Bareroot plants in true dormancy will have flexible, pliable stems that bend without snapping, and the wood just beneath the bark should appear green or white when you scratch it lightly with your fingernail. Dead plants will have brittle, easily snapping stems and brown, dry tissue under the bark with no moisture present. Upon arrival, soak the roots in water for 1 to 24 hours in a shady spot, then plant as soon as possible to give your bareroot the best chance at a successful spring emergence.

Should I mulch around newly planted bareroot plants, and how close to the crown or trunk can mulch safely go?

Yes, mulching around newly planted bareroot plants is highly recommended, as it helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds during the critical establishment period. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic mulch such as wood chips or shredded bark, but keep it at least 3 to 6 inches away from the crown or trunk to prevent rot, disease, and pest issues. Pull the mulch back if you notice it creeping against the base of the plant, and refresh the layer each spring to maintain its benefits.

When do bareroot trees and shrubs actually need staking, and what is the best way to stake them without causing damage?

Bareroot trees generally need staking when planted in exposed or windy locations, or when the trunk diameter is less than about 1.5 inches and cannot support itself upright. Use two stakes placed about 18 inches from the trunk on opposite sides, and attach the tree with flexible tie material such as rubber tree straps or old nylon stockings, never wire or rigid cord that can cut into the bark. Keep stakes in place for no longer than one growing season, as leaving them too long weakens the trunk and prevents the tree from developing natural strength. Check ties monthly and remove the stakes once the tree can stand firmly on its own, typically by late summer of the first year.

How should I space bareroot plants in a landscape bed, home orchard, or edible garden for the best long-term results?

Spacing for bareroot plants depends on the mature size of the variety, so always check the plant's tag or product page for its expected spread before digging your first hole. As a general rule, fruit trees in a home orchard should be spaced 15 to 20 feet apart for standard sizes and 8 to 10 feet for dwarf varieties, while shrubs in a landscape bed are typically spaced at a distance equal to their mature width to allow full canopy development without overcrowding. In an edible garden, tighter spacing can work for trellised or espalier-trained plants, but open-center and freestanding trees need full airflow to reduce disease pressure. Before bareroot season ends in late spring or early June, map out your planting area with stakes and string to confirm spacing, then plant with confidence knowing your bareroot selections will establish quickly and fill in beautifully within a season or two.