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A Complete Guide: How To Plant and Care For Grafted Ornamentals

A Complete Guide: How To Plant and Care For Grafted Ornamentals - Nature Hills Nursery

Charlotte Weidner |

Ornamental trees add beauty, structure, and seasonal interest to any landscape. Single-stemmed tree-form and grafted ornamental trees are especially unique because they have been carefully trained or grafted to grow in a specific way, often featuring a decorative canopy of flowers, leaves, or fruit. However, these trees require special care to keep them healthy and looking their best.

In this guide, we'll cover what tree-form and grafted ornamental trees are, how to plant them correctly, and how to maintain them year after year.

What Are Tree-Form and Grafted Ornamental Trees?

A grafted or tree-form ornamental tree is a small, decorative tree that has been pruned and shaped to develop a clear trunk with a rounded, weeping or umbrella-like canopy. Read more about these types of unique trees here. Common examples include:

Grafted Tree Form
  • Tree-Form Shrubs – An evergreen or flowering tree trained to grow as a small tree with a flowering top.
    • Flowering Shrubs like Roses, Lilacs, Hydrangeas, Althea, Gardenia, Viburnum, Ninebark, and Sand Cherry
    • Holly
    • Woody Perennial Shrubs like Lavender
    • Dwarf Trees like Ginkgo
  • Weeping Trees & Shrubs – A naturally graceful, arching tree with cascading branches.
  • Tree-Form Vines – Ornamental vines and climbing plants trained atop a standard trunk. This includes:
    • Trumpet Vines
    • Climbing Roses
    • Wisteria
    • Oleander

A grafted ornamental tree is a tree that has had two different plants joined together through grafting. This technique allows a tree to have the desirable traits of both plants. The lower part (rootstock) provides strength and hardiness, while the upper part (scion) produces decorative flowers, leaves, or fruit. Examples include:

  • Grafted Japanese Maples – These trees have unique foliage and are often grafted onto a hardy rootstock.
  • Grafted Weeping Trees – Such as weeping Crabapples, which are trained to cascade from the graft point.
  • Grafted Fruit Trees – Some fruit trees have multiple types of fruit grafted onto one tree.

Because of their special structure, these trees need proper planting, pruning, and care to thrive.

How to Plant Tree-Form and Grafted Ornamental Trees

Proper planting is essential for the long-term health of tree-form and grafted trees.

Follow these steps to ensure success.

Weeping Grafted Tree

Choosing the Right Location

  • Pick a spot with the right amount of sunlight for your tree form variety. Most ornamental trees need full sun to partial shade. Hot growing zones will find their trees appreciate afternoon sun protection.
  • Ensure good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
  • Choose an area with well-drained soil to prevent root rot.

Digging the Hole

  • Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root system.
  • Do not bury the graft union (the swollen area where the tree was grafted). Keep it above the soil line to prevent the rootstock from taking over.

Backfilling and Watering

  • Fill in the hole with the original soil, avoiding excessive amendments that can cause weak root growth.
  • Water deeply after planting to settle the soil and remove air pockets.

Mulching

  • Add a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.

Staking

  • Many newly installed trees of all kinds appreciate staking to support a nice straight trunk while their roots become established. Secure with soft ties and check these ties often to ensure they do not dig into the trunk as they grow, and ensure they do not rub the bark. Once the tree is established, you can remove the stake.

Maintenance and Care For Your Tree-Form and Grafted Ornamental Trees

Regular care ensures your tree remains healthy, shapely, and long-lived.

Watering

  • Newly planted trees need regular watering until they establish roots, usually for the first one to two years.
  • Once established, water deeply once a week if there is no rainfall. Avoid shallow, frequent watering.

Fertilizing

  • Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring to encourage healthy growth and blooms.
  • Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

Pruning

  • Grafted trees require selective pruning to remove any unwanted growth from the rootstock. If shoots appear below the graft union, cut them off immediately.
  • For tree-form varieties, prune depending on the variety. Some varieties should be pruned when dormant and others should be pruned immediately after flowering. Remove:
    • Dead or diseased branches
    • Weak, crossing, or inward-growing limbs
    • Excess growth that affects the tree’s shape - typically can cut back the head of the tree form by a third.
  • Weeping or umbrella-shaped trees may need light trimming to maintain their elegant form.
  • Remove suckers that will sap your tree of energy, and remove water growth that will clutter up the canopy.

Staking and Support

  • Some tree-form and grafted trees have weaker trunks and need staking for the first one to two years.
  • Use soft ties to secure the tree to the stake, allowing some movement to encourage strong root development.

Winter Protection

  • If you live in a cold climate, wrap the trunk with burlap or tree wrap in winter to prevent sunscald and frost cracks.
  • For small or newly planted trees, consider mulching around the base to protect roots from freezing temperatures.

Pest and Disease Prevention

  • Keep an eye out for common pests like aphids, scale, and borers. Treat infestations early with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
  • Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot and fungal diseases.
Tree Graft

Easy Care Elevated Elegance With Tree Form Ornamentals!

Tree-form and grafted ornamental trees can be stunning focal points in any landscape, providing seasonal color, unique structure, and long-lasting beauty. By planting them correctly, pruning as needed, and providing consistent care, you can enjoy their elegance and charm for many years.

Whether you're growing a Weeping Cherry, a tree-form Rose, or a grafted Japanese Maple, giving your tree the right attention will ensure strong growth and spectacular blooms every season.

If you're looking for high-quality ornamental trees, check out our wide selection of grafted and tree-form trees today!

Happy Planting!

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I plant grafted ornamental trees correctly, including hole size and graft union position?

Dig a planting hole twice as wide as the root ball but only as deep, ensuring the graft union (the swollen area where rootstock meets scion) sits 1-2 inches above the soil line. Backfill with native soil mixed with compost, water thoroughly to eliminate air pockets, and apply 2-3 inches of mulch around the base while keeping it away from the trunk. Plant in early spring or fall when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is consistent. Position the tree's most attractive side facing your primary viewing area and stake only if necessary for the first growing season.

Should the graft union be buried or kept above the soil line when planting?

The graft union should always be kept above the soil line when planting grafted ornamental trees. Plant so the graft union sits 1-2 inches above ground level to prevent the rootstock from taking over and to avoid rot issues that can develop when the union is buried. This positioning ensures the desirable grafted portion (scion) remains the dominant growing part of your tree. Check the union's position annually, as settling soil may require adding more soil around the base while keeping the union exposed.

What is the best location for planting grafted ornamentals, considering sun, air circulation, and soil drainage?

Choose a location with 6-8 hours of morning sunlight and good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases, while avoiding harsh afternoon sun in zones 7-9. Ensure excellent soil drainage by planting in raised beds or amending heavy clay soils, as grafted ornamentals are particularly susceptible to root rot at the graft union. The site should be protected from strong winds that can damage the delicate graft point and decorative canopy. Test your soil drainage by digging a 12-inch hole and filling it with water - it should drain within 24 hours for optimal results.

How often and deeply should I water newly planted grafted trees?

Water newly planted grafted trees deeply 2-3 times per week, applying 1-2 inches of water each time to saturate the root zone 12-18 inches deep. During the first growing season, maintain consistent soil moisture without waterlogging, as the graft union is particularly vulnerable to stress from both drought and overwatering. Check soil moisture by inserting your finger 2-3 inches deep near the base of the tree before watering.

What type of mulch and how much should I use around grafted ornamental trees?

Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch like shredded bark, wood chips, or compost around your grafted ornamental trees, extending the mulch ring to the drip line. Keep mulch 3-4 inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and pest issues that could damage the graft union. Refresh the mulch layer annually in spring to maintain proper depth and moisture retention. Choose finer mulches for smaller ornamentals and coarser materials for larger specimens.

How do I prune grafted trees to remove rootstock suckers or shoots below the graft?

Remove rootstock suckers immediately when you spot them growing below the graft union (the swollen area where the two plants join). Cut suckers flush with the trunk or root using clean, sharp pruners, making sure not to damage the main rootstock. These vigorous shoots will compete with your grafted variety and can eventually overtake the desired ornamental top if left unchecked. Check your grafted trees monthly during the growing season and remove any suckers promptly to maintain the tree's intended form and flowering characteristics.

What happens if rootstock shoots take over after the scion dies, like changing flower color?

When the scion dies and rootstock takes over, you'll lose all the desirable ornamental characteristics you originally purchased, such as specific flower colors, weeping forms, or unique foliage. The rootstock will revert to its original species, which is typically chosen for hardiness rather than beauty, often producing different colored flowers, standard growth habits, or even no blooms at all. This commonly occurs when the graft union (located 2-6 inches above soil level) is damaged by cold, pests, or mechanical injury. Prevent this by protecting the graft union with mulch in zones 3-7 and immediately removing any shoots growing below the graft point throughout the growing season.

Which USDA hardiness zones are best suited for grafted ornamental trees and shrubs?

Grafted ornamental trees and shrubs thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3-9, with specific varieties adapted to different climate ranges. Cold-hardy grafted fruits like apples and pears perform best in zones 3-7, while ornamental flowering trees such as grafted Japanese maples excel in zones 5-8. Heat-tolerant grafted citrus and Mediterranean ornamentals are suited for zones 8-10. Choose grafted varieties specifically rated for your zone and plant them in spring after the last frost date for optimal establishment.

Will a broken grafted tree heal if I re-graft it onto itself above the original graft?

A broken grafted tree can potentially heal if you re-graft it above the original union, but success depends on the severity of the break and your grafting skills. The best time for re-grafting is during late winter to early spring when the tree is dormant but sap is beginning to flow. Use proper grafting techniques like whip-and-tongue or cleft grafting, ensuring the cambium layers align perfectly and wrapping the union securely with grafting tape. For best results, consult a certified arborist or consider replacing the tree if the break is severe or near the original graft union.

When is the best time to graft ornamental plants for success?

The best time to graft ornamental plants is during late winter to early spring (February through April in most zones), when plants are dormant but sap is beginning to flow. This timing allows the graft union to heal and establish before the stress of summer heat. For optimal success, graft when daytime temperatures consistently reach 60-70°F and nighttime temperatures stay above freezing. Choose healthy, actively growing scion wood and ensure your grafting tools are sharp and sterile for clean cuts.

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