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Helpful Gardening Tips

  • Turnips Tough?

    Or how about tough turnips? If you plant turnips in the spring approximately 3 weeks before the last frost or 2 months before the first frost in the fall, you won't have turnips that will fight back when chewing them. Turnips are a cool weather vegetable that can withstand cold temperatures if mulched well. I suggest at least 2 - 3 inches of mulch. If you plant them too late in the spring and the temperatures exceed 75° F, be prepared for bitter turnip face. And, if you thought radishes get woody in hot temperatures, you can expect the same from turnips.

    As always, selecting the right spot to plant your turnips is as important as getting the crop in on time. You should do a soil sample to determine the soils pH level. The range should be 5.5 - 6.8. If you are amending the soil, do not use manure as turnips simply do not like it. Bountiful crops come from rich, loose soils.

    If you are intending to store turnips, don't wash off the soil and store in a cool dark place. 

  • Fruit Cracking?

    It is so important to keep uniform moisture to your fruit trees and tomato plants. If you don't, you will probably experience the dreaded fruit cracking or splitting right about harvest time. It is so disappointing when that happens as most people work very diligently trying to bring home the perfect and abundant crop. No matter the fruit (apples, cherries, plums, pears and tomatoes) they are all susceptible.

    It is really pretty simple to alleviate most of the problems by simply applying uniform moisture. During periods of less than 1 inch of rain per week you need to supplement the rainfall. Tomato plants should be deeply mulched (minimum 2 inches) to retain uniform moisture. Tomato plants need sufficient moisture to present you with large and tasty fruit. Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable?  We'll save that for another time.

  • Tree Bark Splitting?

    Tree bark splitting in the winter months on young fruit trees, broad-leaf or ornamental trees can be quite common. It is disturbing to walk out and check your young plantings and find that dreaded bark split. The splitting is lengthwise on the trunk or major limbs and normally on the south or southwest sides of the tree. It is a common problem in growing zones that have nice warm winter days and then rapid temperature drops at night.

    There are treatments such as wrapping the young trees with tree-wrap tape, paper or burlap. I have seen people apply a white plastic wrap or even tie a wide board upright on the south side of the tree trunk to protect their trees.

     

  • Quick Screening

    If you are looking for a quick screening tree the Populus genus may be right for you. It is a soft wooded tree and it will grow up to 3 - 5 feet a year depending upon placement and growing zone. Sound like the perfect answer for you? It just might be but you will need to be aware of the a couple of deficiencies.

    The poplar tree is weak limbed which can result in many small twigs and branches on the ground. The trees life span is around 15 years, that is if the tree has been well watered throughout it's life span. The poplar will tolerate partial shade but does best in full sun.

    So, with these deficiencies, why plant a poplar tree? We find that the poplar is used for a couple of great applications. A row of poplars can be planted for that almost instant screen.  A row of conifers that are much slower growing are planted as the permanent screen. If you maintain your poplar trees, in 12 - 15 years your conifer screen is ready to replace the poplar screen. A saw and wood chipper cleans out a screen of poplars in a quick fashion. The poplar tree is also planted in a backyard to be a workhorse shade tree until your plantings of hardwood trees can take over and the poplar can be cut down.

    Also a good windbreak tree if you have a garden in a wide open area.

  • Okra

    You either love it or hate it! I for one, love eating okra. Growing up on a Midwestern farm I never tasted okra until I was probably 25 years old. I was traveling for work and was in Memphis, TN when I first encountered this great tasting vegetable. Then, as my food explorations found their way to Cajun stews and gumbos and finding okra as a staple in those dishes, it pretty much cemented my taste for okra.

    I have never tried growing the vegetable even though I have read you can grow it anywhere you can grow corn. My southern friends tell me that the okra pods need to be picked every few days as it is best when young and tender. The plants are not hard to care for and if you mulch heavily you only need to add 1 - 1.5 inches of water a week. The temperature needs to be at least 75 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit to set seed.

    I wish I had room in my garden to grow okra; until I find some room, I will have to continue purchasing this yummy treat.   

  • Ornamental Veggies

    Were you ever told by your parents to "eat your vegetables and not play with them"?  I was numerous times, as taking the time to eat when I was a child seemed like a waste of time. Here's your chance to play with your vegetables!

    Many times vegetables are forgotten when it comes time to decorate your table or your outdoor living space. Gourds for example, were one of my mothers favorites to decorate a fall table. I don't see gourds used much anymore, nor do I see them for sale except for farmers markets and craft shows. Gourds show off many colors and shapes. They are easy to grow and fun to decorate with as well as make bird houses or bird feeders with.

    Ornamental corn is another great vegetable used for decoration, especially for fall events. How about using ornamental cabbage and kale to decorate with? You can cut away the centers of ornamental cabbage to make a serving bowl for dips for your next get together. You can also line party plates with the leaves of kale or cabbage to give them a colorful boost.

    Now you can play with your food as well as eat it.

  • Peony Planting Tips

    Peonies can be touch temperamental if not planted correctly. I know this from experience as one of my wife's favorite perennials is the peony bush. I have never had much luck transplanting a peony; not sure why but I have decided that once planted, a peony will be in the same spot forever. I always select a sunny spot that is protected from strong winds. I have seen peonies in partial shade areas and in my opinion they are not as healthy or vibrant as if they were planted in full sun.

    My favorite way to start a peony is from bare root. I love the idea of planting a small root and watching it transform into a beautiful bush. I planted 3 bushes two years ago and I have dozens of buds ready to open in the second year. For fall planting, till your soil a good 10 - 12 inches deep. Examine your peony root and you will see small red buds on the crown. Place the crown root 1 - 2 inches below the soil line, no deeper. If you do, the plant may never bloom and what a shame that would be.

    You may want to consider building a string fence or some type of support for your peony bushes as they tend to get top heavy with all the large blooms on them. Another idea is to plant larger more woody plants next to the peonies to help support the plants.

    In a couple of days a vase on our kitchen table will be filled with 3 different colored peony blooms. My wife is looking so forward to using our peonies as cut flowers for displaying.

  • Broccoli

    I always wondered why my parents never grew broccoli in their garden as we seemed to have it on our dinner plates at least a couple of times a month. I was considering planting some this year but time and space did not allow. After doing some research over the winter months I learned a few facts and tips which I hope other people will find useful.

    Broccoli is a cool weather vegetable and should be planted to avoid those hot months of summer. Move broccoli to a new place in your garden at the end of the third year. Keeping broccoli in the same place for 4 years or more could invite cabbage worms. Broccoli is a member of the cabbage family and rotating from place to place thwarts the cabbage worm invaders.

    I'm going to try and find a place in my garden next year to grow this green great tasting vegetable. 

     

  • Seeds & Small Fruits

    What a difference a year can make when it comes to small fruits and seed purchases. I have been walking local garden centers and watching what people are buying this year. Seeds, seeds and more seeds. Not so long ago I read that the vegetable and flower seed business was dropping at unprecedented rates as people no longer want to plant seeds. Just yesterday an article in our local paper stated that garden centers are enjoying an upswing in seed and small fruit sales. In fact some garden centers claim they cannot keep enough vegetable seeds in stock to sell. The number of small berry plants that I witnessed going out the door this spring was unusual, to put it mildly.

    I have read it's the high fuel prices, concerns over quality and just people wanting to grow their own food. Whatever the reason or reasons, I'm elated. I have a colleague that is 27 years old and has never planted anything before in his life. This year he planted 3 blackberry bushes and put in a vegetable garden. Why is he all of the sudden interested in gardening?  He said he thinks it will be fun and more healthy to grow some of his own food.

    Growing your own vegetables and small fruit sounds like it can be complicated if you have never attempted to do so before. Actually, there is so much great information online as well as the garden centers that takes the worry out of planting your first or second garden. Be adventurous and try different vegetables or flowers from seed or small plugs. What's the worst thing that can happen? I believe that it is you have learned something. The best thing! You have great tasting vegetables to eat and you will have saved some money.

    It's never too early or late in life to start a small garden. Happy gardening!

  • Painting a tree's trunk can help prevent sun damage, which can lead to other issues

    This is a very informative video from Ed Laivo of Dave Wilson Nursery that explains and demonstrates how painting a trees exposed trunk can help prevent sunburn damage to the tree. Sunburn damage to a tree can make it easier for bores to penetrate the trunk, causing more damage.

    Watch below:

  • Gravel Mulch

    I used to look at landscapes with gravel mulch in a much different way and I would tell myself I wouldn't ever consider using gravel as a mulch. Well, as time passed and I did some research on the benefits, I believe I may just try a bed or so of gravel mulch. What changed my mind? I saw a bed of sedum planted with an earth tone gravel mulch in place; it really looked great.  

    I have read some blogs describing gravel mulch as horrible looking and questions why would anyone use gravel as a mulch. I believe that gravel mulch has a place in various applications and can be very attractive. Plus, it helps prevent soil erosion, helps maintain soil moisture and can be a weed barrier if depths of 3 inches are used. Crushed gravel works great on slopes and doesn't blow away in the wind like wood mulch does, so you don't have to continually be replenishing the area.

    If you live in an active termite area, gravel may be the only way to mulch! 

     

     

  • Annuals

     Euphorbia 'Diamond Frost'

    My wife and I attended a fundraiser at our local animal (Nebraska Humane Society) shelter dubbed "Plants For Pooches" yesterday.  This year the event was held a little earlier than in the past but the rainy and chilly weather didn't stop the crowds from coming out and purchasing some greenery and supporting a great cause. We picked up several large hanging baskets mixed with various Petunias, along with other plants such as the Diamond Frost Euphorbia 'Diamond Frost' which is one of my favorite plants as it adds just the right texture and balance to many plantings.

    After we filled the Jeep with our hanging baskets, a couple of flats of bedding plants, plus a tropical hibiscus we just couldn't resist buying, we headed home. Upon arriving home, the wind picked up and the temperatures were in the mid-forties. These annuals were in perfect condition as they had just come out of their greenhouse environment.  We just couldn't bring ourselves to place the plants outside even though our forecasted low for the night was only 25 degrees. So we found a couple of spots in our family room to keep them for the night.

    We normally don't purchase our annuals until mid-May which is our average last frost date. But with this fund raising event being earlier than normal, we probably will be doing a little plant sitting until our last frost date has passed. Not a problem as we are supporters of the animal shelter and love our garden.

     

  • Grouping Perennials By Watering Needs

    There are times when you just have to go back and start over. My wife and I enjoy new perennials so much that when we see something we like, we buy it. Then we go home and try and find a place for the new purchase. As we have followed that "gotta have it" approach for years, we unknowingly created excess watering chores mainly for my wife, as I must admit she does the watering in our flower beds. We seem to have thirsty plants mixed in with not so thirsty plants, and have placed some of the thirsty plants in hard to reach places.

    So this year we are going to transplant some of our mis-placed plants and try to group them into areas that makes the most watering sense. By grouping plants with similar moisture needs, we (I mean my wife) won't be dragging a garden hose to that bed so often to just water a couple of plants that require more water than the others in the bed. We do have a couple of spots where a garden hose is impossible to reach so a watering can must be utilized to water plants. Our new found wisdom is to group plants that thrive on less water. By grouping less-thirsty plants in those hard to reach places will allow for less watering chores.

    We probably won't be impulse planting anymore, which is disappointing, but I have a hunch every now and then a plant will be mis-placed. Sometimes you just have to have a certain plant and the extra work is worth it! 

  • Sleep, Creep & Leap

    One of my favorite gardening rhythms is so true but when I say it to customers, they give me a look as to say "Thats not what I wanted to hear". I have determined that when I talk about planting perennials, if I stick to this phrase "the first year they sleep, the second year they creep and the third year they leap" our customers understand why their plant isn't much larger a year or two later.

    I believe that overselling a product only creates friction in the future. While all perennials do not exactly follow the "sleep, creep and leap" phrase to a tee, I figure if a customer gets better than expected results, then we both win. We didn't oversell the product and the customer is not expecting to see a plant shoot up and become the focal point in their perennial bed in one year.

    After years of perennial plantings, I still need to remind myself of the "sleep, creep and leap phrase. I'm just like most other people, impatient!

    Happy Gardening!

  • Garden Hose

    This past weekend I decided to bring my garden hoses out of the garage and get them in place for the season. After viewing one of the hoses I decided it was time to replace it. So off to the local hardware store where I  purchased this shiny new hose. As I was unwinding the hose I had forgotten how unruly they can be. It seemed like the hose had a mind of it's own as the memory of being wound in a perfect circle and displayed in the store for who knows how long. I was unaware of my wife watching me struggling unwinding the hose. So after a couple of minutes I decided to let the heat of the day assist me with straightening the hose.

    I stretched the hose out to its full length in my yard with my wife assisting by straightening the coils. Once the hose was stretched out, my work was done for a couple of hours. I let the 78 degree day and the sun warm the hose. After a couple of hours I took the female end and attached it to my faucet and I carefully looped the hose onto it's station. Much easier to handle when warm than right from the pre-coiled packaging. With my garden hose adventure completed, I move onto more fun items on the agenda like planting.  

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