Growing Wise : fall gardening

Spare Bulbs

Elisabeth — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 16:18:00 GMT

If you are like me, you buy too many bulbs every year. Around Thanksgiving you heave most of the remaining bulbs into the ground with a sigh of relief. However, if you are like me, more often than not, you also have a few left over. Simply keeping them until next year is not an option, so put them to good use.

If the ground is still workable, plant them--even though it is already the first week of December. Chances are they will get enough chilling to provide you with blooms next spring. You can also pot them up. Depending on the number of bulbs you have, pick a large pot or pots, fill with good potting soil and plant your bulbs. If you have a mixture of daffodils or tulips and smaller bulbs, like crocuses, save space by planting them in layers. Dig down six to eight inches for the large bulbs, cover them with a couple of inches of soil, then plant the little bulbs on top and cover those. A cross section of your planting scheme would look a little like a fruitcake.

Put your pots in a garage or other cold, sheltered spot (a screened porch or a sheltered corner right by the house). The idea is for the pots to be chilled, but not frozen solid for at least a few weeks. When spring comes, you should see the green tips popping up through the soil. After your bulbs have bloomed, you can plant them in the garden. Tulips are a little "iffy" under the best of circumstances, but daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses should return faithfully the next year.

Winter Cabbage

Elisabeth — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 16:16:00 GMT

Every year I install ornamental cabbage and kale varieties in the garden to give color in late fall and through the winter. The colors are wonderful and the cabbages would be perfect if only the groundhog was not so fond of them.

Fortunately a few cabbages managed to escape the groundhog's attention last year. When I went to remove them in March, much to my surprise, I found that one of the cabbages had taken root. I decided to see what would happen if I left it alone.

It sent up a single flower stalk with pretty, but relatively insignificant yellow flowers. It acquired a few spindly leaves, but otherwise changed little throughout much of the summer. Finally in the fall it sprouted new leaves, which formed themselves into the blossom-like shape of a full-grown ornamental cabbage. The leaves were purple at the center of the plant and gray/green on the outside. The cabbage head was not as big as it was last year, but it was very pretty. It also sprouted a spindly offspring. As a decorative accent, my two-year old cabbage has earned its keep. Let's hope the groundhog stays busy elsewhere.

The Growing Garden

Elisabeth — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 20:25:00 GMT

Every year I have enlarged my garden. This year is no exception and I am about to start the process.

If you do just a little extra work in the fall, you will have a lovely garden bed by springtime. Don't worry about the digging--I never do. Instead use the layered newspaper and compost method that author Patricia Lanza dubbed "lasagna gardening." All you have to do is mark out the area of lawn that you want to make into a garden bed. Cover it with a layer of newsprint at least several pages thick. Wet down the newspaper with the garden hose. Cover the newspaper with mulch. In this season a thick mulch of fallen leaves that you have gone over a few times with the lawnmower will do nicely and not cost you a thing. I usually use one layer of newspaper and one layer of mulch, but if your soil is particularly problematic, you may want to repeat the layering.

After you have finished the layering, attend to your regular business until spring. By the time the soil has warmed up enough for planting, your new bed will be ready. The newsprint and mulch smother the grass, and as they break down, the soil loosens. Worms move in and help the task along. The soil becomes workable and stays weed free. Your back will ache much less and you can use the time you save to plan your new planting scheme.

Multi Tasking

Elisabeth — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 22:58:00 GMT

Every year I order too many bulbs. It's the bulb vendors' fault--they make all the tulips, daffodils and crocuses look so gorgeous that it would take a will of iron not to order a large number of them

Now it is early November. The yard is full of fallen leaves and it's quite likely that the grass underneath them needs mowing. I have one hundred fifty daffodils yet to plant, not to mention odds and ends of tulips and hyacinths. The whole situation is overwhelming.

I solve the problem by multi tasking. Starting with the worst part of the yard, I rake up a bag or two of leaves. Once the garden beds in the raked area are clear, I plant bulbs, forgoing individual planting holes in favor of large holes that can hold five or even seven daffodils apiece. Depending on the amount of time that I have, I repeat this step until a large chunk of the lawn is leaf-free and the surrounding beds are filled with daffodil bulbs. Then I mow the newly-cleared section of lawn. It's amazing what you can do in only an hour (or less) by using this method.

Daffodils look best growing in clumps because Mother Nature rarely makes straight rows.

By the time all the leaves have fallen, I have generally gotten all the bulbs planted. I sweep the last batches of leaves into the beds to protect my slumbering bulbs and perennials.

Grape Hyacinths

Elisabeth — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 14:42:00 GMT

When most of us think about spring-blooming bulbs, we focus on daffodils and tulips. Both are essential in spring, but there are so many of the so-called "little bulbs" that cost a pittance and add a new dimension to the spring garden. I am especially fond of muscari or grape hyacinth.

Grape hyacinth is one of those old fashioned flowers that you often find established in the gardens of older homes. The first spring that we spent in our current house, I noticed many clumps of grass-like foliage. When they finally bloomed, I saw that those clumps were Muscari armeniacum, or traditional blue grape hyacinth. Since then they have prospered and multiplied. I have divided the original clumps many times to make a grape hyacinth border in one of my raised beds.

I think that the best kept secret about these plants is that the tiny, bell-shaped flowers are so sweetly scented. A small bouquet of grape hyacinths won't scent a room, but will delight you every time you raise it to your nose. I keep a little vase of them on my desk for a bit of springtime inspiration. The flowers also last--in the garden and in the house--for a long time.

If you have a container or window box garden, you can plant a spring assortment of daffodils, tulips and grape hyacinths. Layer your planting scheme by installing the daffodils first, about seven inches down. Cover them with soil, and then arrange the tulip bulbs in the next layer, which should be about five inches down. Cover the tulips, then arrange the grape hyacinth bulbs, which should be about four inches down. Cover the small bulbs and top off the container with potting mix. In the spring you will have a succession of blooms in a single pot.

I had such success with my traditional grape hyacinths that I branched out and ordered some of the sky-blue 'Valerie Finnis' variety. They now flourish at the base of a long privet hedge You can also buy white grape hyacinths, which look especially nice in an all-white planting scheme or combined with blue varieties.

One of the best things about the little bulbs is that you don't have to plant them one by one. Dig a big hole or a trench and install a handful at a time. The effect is more natural and the strain on your back will be much less.

Lily Turf

Elisabeth — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 21:15:00 GMT

As I walk around the neighborhood these days, I take careful note of which plants still look bright and fresh as the growing season wanes. One plant that looks especially good is liriope or lily turf.

You may not be familiar with this somewhat grassy-looking plant, but you have probably seen it around. Like many plants with the word "lily" in their common names, liriope is not a member of the lily family. It is, however, related to another famous non-lily: lily-of-the-valley or convallaria. Liriope is native to eastern Asia.

Since the groundcover craze began about a decade ago, lily turf has come into its own. It stands about ten inches high in my yard, with long, grasslike leaves that form tidy mounds up to three feet across. Green liriope is attractive on its own, but I am very partial to the variegated variety, with yellow-edged leaves.

In the fall lily turf sprouts tall flower stalks, the top third of which are covered with tiny purple blossoms. Some people think they look like grape hyacinths, but they might also remind you of miniature purple loosestrife stalks. Liriope is not fussy about its surroundings (though adequate moisture works wonders) and can make do with partial shade.

One of the best things about liriope is that when it gets too big, it is very easy to divide. If you can only buy one plant because you are on a tight budget, have no fear. A happy liriope will repay your investment many times over. If you divide regularly, within five years, you will have a nice, ground-covering patch.

Liriope is neither lily nor turf, just a wonderful plant for the fall garden.

Hydrangea Aftercare

Elisabeth — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:39:00 GMT

Everyone always wants to know when to prune their hydrangeas. It doesn't matter if the hydrangeas are oak leaf varieties, old fashioned "mophead" type or the newer-fangled 'Endless Summer' (which are really just new and improved mopheads). It also doesn't matter whether the specimens in question are in the ground or in large pots. The question remains, "When can I prune the hydrangeas?"

The answer to all of those questions is "now". The summer blooming hydrangeas have long since passed their glory. The flowerheads have dried to a blue-green, pink-green or pinkish brown shade. Most are on their way to becoming completely brown and desiccated. Tidy up the plants now by clipping off the browned flowerheads (You can, of course, keep them for winter interest. Personally I don't think they are all that interesting.) This is also the time to trim back wayward branches or reduce the overall size of sprawling specimens.

While you are pruning, keep a sharp eye out for babies. Hydrangeas root wherever their stems touch the ground, so a healthy bush may have several offspring in a season. You can transplant those babies right now if they have produced their own leaves. Sever the branch connecting the baby to the mother plant and dig up the youngster, being careful to include a reasonably large root ball. Replant immediately in a new space and remember to provide regular water while it is getting settled in its new home.

That's it. There's really no mystery to pruning hydrangeas. If your bushes are already shapely and fit their spaces nicely, all you have to do is trim off the spent flowerheads. Remember that life is hard, but hydrangeas are really very easy.

Fall Chores

Elisabeth — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 18:38:00 GMT

As fall progresses, it's important to prioritize your garden chores. It's even more important, if, like most of us, you have less time in the garden than you might like.

First things first--if you have any plants waiting to go into the ground, plant them as soon as possible. You want to give the roots a chance to settle themselves in the soil before hard frosts come. If there is something you want to transplant or divide, do that now as well. If your boxes of spring-flowering bulbs have already arrived, put them in a cool dark place for the time being. They will keep, but your potted plant sale specials will not.

Gather your houseplants together on a porch or other protected spot, then take them in the house as soon as night temperatures drop below fifty.

Do fall clean-up as you complete your planting chores. Going step by step, a little at a time beats spending an entire weekend on clean-up. Keep weeding. It will pay off next spring.

Pick remaining green and greenish tomatoes and put them in a sealed brown bag in a cool, dry place in the house. Many of them will ripen just fine.

Take cuttings of desirable or unusual coleus or other plants that you want to pot up and overwinter in the house.

Plant crocus and daffodil bulbs first, followed by hyacinths. Save the tulips for last. I have planted tulips as late as mid November in mild years with no problems.

While you are at it, take time to enjoy your fall garden. Remember that it will be several months before you see flowers again.

Aster Admiration

Elisabeth — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 19:51:00 GMT

Those of us who love our gardens often spend lots of time thinking about color combinations, trying to solve the riddle of "what goes with what." Even if you find the answer, you still have to worry about whether your color coordinated blooms will open at the same time. In the fall there is a great solution to this conundrum--plant asters.

Asters, those free-flowering members of the daisy family, are always color coordinated. Plant any aster with any other aster and the colors will get along. Plant any ten different asters and the colors will still look wonderful together. Why is this? Because all asters, except those with white blossoms, have greater or lesser amounts of blue in their color profiles. Even the dusty pink and rose varieties veer ever so slightly towards blue (rather than yellow). Since the white asters go with everything anyway, all asters work together.

This means that you are free to plant an entire sunny corner or bed with a mixture of tall and short asters. Planting the short ones in front of the taller varieties also covers up the tall asters' one flaw--ugly stalks. You can also grow several different varieties of aster in a large pot for an impressive fall display.

So worry about color matching in some other part of the garden. Let asters set you free.

Transplanting Shrubs

Elisabeth — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 16:53:00 GMT

In much of the country, now is the perfect time to transplant plants and shrubs. The weather has cooled off, so plants (and gardeners) aren't stressed by torrid heat. Specimens that you transplant now will have plenty of time to get established before frost sets in. Next spring they will be off to the races, getting a good head start on plants that go in after the last frost date.

Yesterday I transplanted three shrubs--two small variegated euonymus and one ground hugging juniper. Overshadowed by larger shrubs in their previous location, all three were yearning for more light and air. I dug each one out, making sure to include a large root ball; dug three large holes; filled the bottoms of the holes with a mix of soil and compost; then watered each one. The shrubs went in, followed by more topsoil and a nice blanket of mulch. If you do this kind of transplanting, make sure that the mulch doesn't touch the main trunks of your shrubs, lest rot set in.

Because of the large root balls, my new transplants haven't suffered any visible transplant shock. I will keep them well watered and watch as they get used to their new and improved garden home. This kind of "recycling"--moving plants from a less desirable location to a more desirable site--is the cost effective and highly satisfying. The money that you save (by reusing existing plants) will help you afford a few more spring bulbs.

A Bit of Black

Elisabeth — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 14:18:00 GMT

Sedum are staples of the garden--especially the fall garden. There are many great species and varieties, from the tall favorite, 'Autumn Joy', to smaller, ground covering types. All are easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil, and all attract butterflies.

My new favorite sedums are the ones with leaves so dark that they look black from even a short distance. Two years ago I installed 'Black Jack', which is tall, like 'Autumn Joy', but sports fleshy, dark purple stems and nearly black leaves. The blooms are rose-pink and lovely, but it is the black foliage that really generates excitement in the garden. 'Black Jack' stands out in the sea of green and catches your eye.

'Purple Emperor' is another black-leafed sedum that is more compact than 'Black Jack' (fifteen inches tall versus twenty four inches). Well suited to container culture, 'Purple Emporor' also has vibrant pink flowerheads that are great for drying.

So try planting a clump of black-leafed sedum, either on their own, or mixed among the green-leafed varieties. Either way, they add spice to the garden mix.

Pee Gee Hydrangea

Elisabeth — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 19:30:00 GMT

Nothing is flashier in late August and early September than Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, known for obvious reasons as the "pee gee" hydrangea. These shrubs, which can be grown as small trees or standards, bloom later than most garden hydrangeas, but they are worth the wait.

Like their relatives, the earlier blooming oak leaf hydrangeas, pee gees have conical flower panicles. However, pee gee panicles are fatter and a bit more rounded and can be enormous. A mature plant can sport scores of these beautiful flowerheads, which are very suitable for flower arrangements and even more suitable for drying.

Most hydrangeas like dappled shade, rather than deep shade, and should be well mulched. If you are planting one in a mixed border or an array of shrubs, be sure to leave enough room for growth. Your pee gee may start out slowly, but after a few years it will put on an impressive show.

If you are going to dry the flower panicles, be sure to pick them after they turn pink and the petals start to dry. Hang bundles of them upside down in a cool, airy place, and in a few weeks they should be ready for arrangements, wreaths or other decorations.

Deadheading

Elisabeth — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 14:46:00 GMT

When I go through my perennial beds in the early fall, I am usually confronted by a dilemma. From coneflowers to gaillardia, many plants are finished with their blooming chores and are in the process of setting seed. If I want those plants to reseed or feed the local bird population, I can let the deadheads stay on the stalks. If I want a tidy garden that creates a good backdrop for the fall blooming plants, I can clip the deadheads off.

Usually I compromise. If a deadhead is in the way of other plants that are in bloom or about to bloom, I cut it off. If not, I let it stay. The coneflowers, in particular, are still interesting, their darkening "cones" no longer ornamented by colorful petals. The local goldfinches and other birds are attracted to the seeds, and I figure that they bring as much color to the garden as the flowers do.

Annuals are a different affair. Deadheading keeps them producing--sometimes right up until frost. However, if I want an annual to self seed, I deadhead about two thirds of the stalks and leave the rest.

Fall Crocus

Elisabeth — Fri, 29 Aug 2008 19:34:00 GMT

It's always nice to have a few surprises in your fall garden. One of the nicest surprises is fall-blooming crocus. These little flowering plants, which can be ordered and planted now, are similar in appearance to spring-flowering varieties and can be used in the same ways. The big difference between these crocuses and the spring-blooming types is that you can usually plant them in early fall and they will bloom later in the same season.

One of my favorites is the blue-purple saffron crocus or Crocus sativus. Cultivated for centuries, its golden stigmas are the source of the culinary spice, saffron. I also like to mix up my fall crocus display with Crocus speciosus, little species crocuses that come in a variety of colors including blue, blue-purple, yellow and white.

Like their spring-blooming kindred, the fall crocuses will increase in number if they are happy. Give them a sunny spot with good drainage and the crocuses will take care of the rest.

Seasonal Change

Elisabeth — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 21:48:00 GMT

The equinox has not arrived yet, but today I felt seasonal change as I finished fall chores and started on winter ones. We had snow on the ground yesterday, so bulb-planting season is officially over. There were a few assorted spring-flowering bulbs lying forgotten in the garage, so I gathered them together and potted them up. I used one large pot and planted them in layers--tulips on the lowest level, miniature irises on the middle level and tiny little chiondoxa closest to the soil surface. The pot will stay in a protected area on the back porch. Come spring I hope all those bulbs will burst into glorious bloom.

Right after bulb planting, I brought the dormant amaryllis up from their resting place in the cellar. They certainly look awful, with the long, shriveled remains of leaves still attached to the bulbs. It was only when I trimmed away all of that desiccated material that I noticed the green tips of new growth sprouting from a couple of the bulbs. I put the three pots of amaryllis in a reproduction copper boiler that I found in one of my neighbors' bulk pick-up piles, added water and put the boiler in my sunny dining room window. The bulbs should bloom in mid-January, just about the right time for an infusion of light and color.