Nature Hills Gardening Community

Hydrangea Aftercare

Elisabeth — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:39:00 GMT

Everyone always wants to know when to prune their hydrangeas. It doesn't matter if the hydrangeas are oak leaf varieties, old fashioned "mophead" type or the newer-fangled 'Endless Summer' (which are really just new and improved mopheads). It also doesn't matter whether the specimens in question are in the ground or in large pots. The question remains, "When can I prune the hydrangeas?"

The answer to all of those questions is "now". The summer blooming hydrangeas have long since passed their glory. The flowerheads have dried to a blue-green, pink-green or pinkish brown shade. Most are on their way to becoming completely brown and desiccated. Tidy up the plants now by clipping off the browned flowerheads (You can, of course, keep them for winter interest. Personally I don't think they are all that interesting.) This is also the time to trim back wayward branches or reduce the overall size of sprawling specimens.

While you are pruning, keep a sharp eye out for babies. Hydrangeas root wherever their stems touch the ground, so a healthy bush may have several offspring in a season. You can transplant those babies right now if they have produced their own leaves. Sever the branch connecting the baby to the mother plant and dig up the youngster, being careful to include a reasonably large root ball. Replant immediately in a new space and remember to provide regular water while it is getting settled in its new home.

That's it. There's really no mystery to pruning hydrangeas. If your bushes are already shapely and fit their spaces nicely, all you have to do is trim off the spent flowerheads. Remember that life is hard, but hydrangeas are really very easy.

Why are some tree trunks painted white?

Bill-nhn — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 14:30:00 GMT

Not knowing what kind of tree trees you are referring to, I am going to assume that they were fruit trees. The traditional way to protect fruit tree trunks from heat and sun is to paint them with a thick coat of lime and water. Most of the time the lime and water are heated to make the coating last longer. This method is called whitewashing. The white paint will reflect the sunlight and thus keep the bark cooler.

Some tree trunks are painted with white latex paint to prevent the killing of the bark by sudden temperature changes in late fall and winter. I have been told that adding rabbit repellent to the paint helps protect the tree from winter foraging of the bark.

Sweet Stella Cherries Are Self-Fruitful

patti-nhn — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 19:46:00 GMT

One of my favorite pies is cherry pie. I can eat them until my stomach hurts. While pies are what you typically think of when you think of cherries, there are many other ways of enjoying them. I like eating them fresh by themselves or mixed with other berries for a great tasting frosty smoothie. When they are frozen, they are easily mixed in a blender with ice and a little skim milk...yummy and healthy too! Chunky cherry preserves are great on toast, waffles, pancakes and ice cream. As I write this my stomach is starting to growl!

Stella Cherries are popular because they do not require another tree for pollination and if you have a Bing Cherry tree a Stella can pollinate the Bing and other cherry trees. Their harvest time is from the end of May to the middle of June and the fruits are large and almost black in color. It is a very sweet cherry.

The standard size tree is 15-16 feet tall and they will tend to produce a little earlier than other cherries. They require little maintenance and they seem to do best with cool summers and low humidity. Try some and see if you don't feel the need to grow your own and impress others with their tastiness!

Fruit Trees & Rodents

jeff-nhn — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 19:44:00 GMT

Once the snow falls and your trees are dormant, damage can still take place on your young fruit trees. Mice, voles and rabbits are attracted to the young trees. Especially during the winter under the cover of snow these rodents do their damage. They will chew a wide ring of bark around the trunk causing a girdled trunk. If snow cover is present throughout the winter the damage goes unnoticed for several months.

The best cure for rodent damage is prevention. For a little over $1.00 you can purchase vinyl tree wraps (also known as a mouse tree guard) to protect fruit trees from these damaging rodents. The coiled vinyl wraps are easy to install. Be sure to be careful or wear gloves when uncoiling the wrap as they can cut your hands. After the wrap is placed around the tree make sure it rests on the soil so the tree is protected at the soil line. The guards come in 24 inch and 36 inch sizes.

Sweet Prunes Antioxidants Galore!

patti-nhn — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 17:26:00 GMT

Do you think of prunes as "old people" food? I know I've been guilty of that for a long time. IT'S NOT TRUE! Everyone of every age should consider including prunes in their diet. We really should be eating them on a regular basis. They are chock full of ANTIOXIDANTS (they have as much as 40% more antioxidants than blueberries) and are a great source of POTASSIUM and many other nutrients. They are easy to take with you, they don't need refrigeration and can be eaten without any preparation. You can get them in many different types of packaging as they can come fresh, dried, canned and in juices.

In doing some research, I found that prunes are very versatile and are great used in coffee cakes, stuffing, smoothies, fruit salads, added into a skillet with pork or stuffed chicken and even with chipotle ribs. There are even prune jams or jellies, sounds good on a nice hot english muffin right now, it's making me hungry just thinking about it.

One of the best prunes is an Early Italian prune. They are known for their sweetness and richness of flavor and are a freestone fruit which means that the fruit will separate easily from the stone. The Early Italian Prune tree does not require another tree to pollinate it. The semi-dwarf tree is 12-14 foot tall when mature so is a good height for harvesting. They are very hardy and will grow in zones 5-9.

I would heartily recommend trying them out and growing your own saves you lots of money! Be brave and try them out, then share them with your friends and family.

Pink Daffodils

Elisabeth — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 14:30:00 GMT

Every few years the color pink becomes fashionable in gardening. Most of us, however, don't really have the money to be slaves to fashion, so we stick with the colors we like. Many of us like pink, so we invest in pink roses, peonies, daylilies and mums. About now, some of us are even thinking about pink daffodils.

The problem with pink daffodils is that despite the appearance of the flowers portrayed in the catalogs, the vast majority--if not all--of them are not really pure pink. Most have a touch of yellow, making them closer to apricot than pink. This is fine, as long as you are not expecting something else.

The first "pink" daffodil, 'Mrs. Backhouse', came along in 1921. Bred by Englishman Robert O. Backhouse, it was named for his wife and fellow daffodil breeder, Sarah Elizabeth. The cup of each flower is apricot and the blossoms are graceful and lovely. Later in the twentieth century, 'Salome" was introduced. Like 'Mrs. Backhouse', it has white petals and an apricot/coral cup, but the trumpet is even longer. Another favorite pink is 'Chromacolor', again with white petals and a "pink" trumpet that is somewhat more intensely colored than that of 'Mrs. Backhouse' or 'Salome'.

The trick with any pink-cupped daffodil is to plant it in light shade, as too much sun washes out the pink color.

If you are a purist about pinks, chances are pink daffodils will disappoint you. But if you can accept these lovely flowers as they are and plant them in masses, they will make a gorgeous garden display.

Will My Tart Cherry Tree Pollinate My Sweet Cherry Tree?

jeff-nhn — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 19:25:00 GMT

The quick answer to this question would be no. But who likes quick answers? Plus, when I'm told no to a question of mine, the next thought that pops into my head is why wouldn't the trees pollinate each other? Tart cherries are biologically capable of pollinating your sweet cherry trees but the bloom time of the tart cherry does not overlap with the normal bloom time of a sweet cherry. The needed pollen source is not available at the needed bloom time.

Alaskan Seas Iris A Blue Beauty!

patti-nhn — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 19:08:00 GMT

The color of this Iris lives up to it's name "Alaskan Seas". It has shades of blues that remind me of a glacier and the water surrounding it. One of my sons who lives in Alaska has sent us many pictures of glaciers from far away to close up. When I saw this lily I realized it really does have the blue hues of a glacier. The colors go from a pale blue to a deeper sea blue. These make excellent cut flowers and look awesome planted in bunches. I think it would look great also with some white and red iris for a patriotic look.

You may be familiar with it under one of it's other names, German Iris, Iris Germanica or Bearded Iris. It will grow up to 30-38 inches and is very hardy to zones 4-10. You can enjoy their blooms from May all the way into June! They are very easy to grow and will thrive in well drained soil as well as being disease and drought resistant. Another plus is that they are resistant to deer, rabbits and squirrels. If you want something new for your garden and especially if you like blues, like I do, this would be a great addition.

Leaves--Blessing or Curse?

Elisabeth — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 14:44:00 GMT

I have a medium size maple tree in front of my house. Intellectually I knew that it has no motivations, but at this time of year I can't help thinking that it has a nasty streak. Every year about now the tree drops a few brightly colored leaves--just enough to make me think it's time to rake. I rake, which makes me feel virtuous. The next morning I invariably awaken to find that the tree has dropped every single remaining leaf overnight. When I go out, I am knee deep in leaves and have to rake all over again, an activity that now takes four times as much time as the day before.

Why don't I just supress the urge to rake on the first day and wait until all the leaves come down? Because if I did, they wouldn't come down all at once. Some things are just laws of nature.

****

I used to think of the fall leaves as a curse, but as I have gotten to be a wiser gardener, I have changed my mind. The following are a few things that fallen leaves can do for you:

Provide exercise: Forget about blowing away your leaves. Rake at least some of them at a brisk pace and you will get part of your daily quota of exercise while beautifying your property.
Fatten up the compost pile: If you have either a compost pile (passive or active) or a compost tumbler, fill it up with leaves, yard clippings and compostable household garbage (no protein material, bones, etc.). Leaves degrade fairly quickly and will help enrich your garden next year.
Blanket your beds: At the end of the season, I cover my flower beds with a blanket of fallen leaves. It helps insulate them for winter, and provides some amount of soil enrichment as the leaves degrade.

Good gardeners never waste resources. As you look out the window at the ocean of fallen leaves on the lawn, think of them as money in the ecological/garden bank. You will feel much better.

Canadian Hemlock Versatile and Evergreen

patti-nhn — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:51:00 GMT

When I see the Canadian Hemlock tree I think of a big old Christmas tree. I'm going into my past here, but, I remember ever since I was a kid seeing these trees laden with the big old glass bulbs of all different colors. I still see them all lit up at Christmastime but the bulbs have changed considerably. Now they may have lighted balls or drums or snowflake ornaments hanging off their sturdy branches.

They work really well as a main focal point in your yard. They are wonderful trees for songbirds, warblers, junco, chickadees and siskins, to name a few. The nice thing about these trees is that they can also be kept sheared into a hedge or even sheared into whatever shape strikes your fancy.

You may also know these trees under the names of a Hemlock Spruce or an Eastern Hemlock. Their scientific name is Tsuga Canadensis. If left to grow to their full height they can get up to 75 feet tall and 30 feet high. It seems like it might live forever as it is possible for it to live as long as 800 years or more! They are a moderate grower, which in ideal growing conditions would be about 1-2 feet a year. This would make a great tree to plant for your kids and your grandkids and even your great-grandkids to enjoy.

Fruit Tree Site Selection

jeff-nhn — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 18:20:00 GMT

Economic fears, high fuel prices, carbon footprints, etc. has led to more and more people wanting to produce their own food in their yards. Fruit prices in grocery stores are very high and many times the fruit isn't very fresh. Growing your own fruit is an option. But, before you go out and purchase a few trees, please check out your yard to make sure your planting site will accommodate fruit trees.

The number one consideration is sunlight. The average fruit tree needs a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight to grow and produce fruit properly. The seasons vary and so does the light a specific spot receives each day. The site you select should receive sun the majority of the day especially in spring and summer.

Another consideration is the space your fruit trees are going to take. Say, for example, you are planting a standard sized apple tree; you will need 30 feet of distance between trees. Should you decide on a semi-dwarf apple tree, the distance shrinks to 15 feet between trees.

So what is the ideal site to grow fruit tees? A gently rolling site with protection from strong winds and extreme temperatures. A growing season with a minimum of 150 frost free days and a loam type soil to plant in along with a minimum of eight hours of sunshine daily.

Fresh fruit is just a few years away if you plant a fruit tree next spring!

Macy's Pride - an easy rose to grow!

patti-nhn — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 21:05:00 GMT

If you are new to gardening and love roses, this is the rose for you! The Macy's Pride is named after, you guessed it, "Macy's Department Store" and was used for their centennial. And not to be forgotten, they won the New England Rose Society Award in 2002. What's not to like about that? They have 4-5 inch extremely fragrant yellow blooms that will continue long into the season after others have given up. Their foliage is a wonderful medium green with a touch of gloss. They are one of the easiest roses to grow and need little maintenance and little to no pruning.

The Macy's Pride Rosa 'BAIcream' (PP15,574) is considered an "own root" rose. If you are not familiar with them, and I wasn't until recently, you will want to get acquainted. These roses are not grafted as many roses are. They grow on their own root. No more dealing with those suckers that can come up from a grafted rose. They are "environmentally friendly" as well since they don't require treatment with any chemicals. It is said that they can outlive some of the other varieties of roses.

You may also enjoy growing a rose that is out of the ordinary reds or pinks. Yellow roses have always had their own "attitude" from the others and I like that in a plant. Yellow roses can be combined with so many other colors, they are a real stand-out and sure to have your neighbors asking how to get their own. You can choose whether you share that confidential information or keep it to yourself! On the other hand, rows after rows of Macy's Pride showing their pretty yellow flowers up and down the streets of your neighborhood might just be a crowd pleaser! Who knows, maybe Macy's will want to come see your show of the rose named after them!

Alliums for Spring

Elisabeth — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 12:39:00 GMT

Everyone I speak to lately has deer problems. People in suburbs that have never had deer suddenly find bucks in the front yard chomping on the daylilies and does in the back munching on the hostas. If you can't afford deer fencing (or are still saving up to buy it), the best thing to do is plant species that deer find distasteful. For the spring garden there is nothing like allium, which you should be buying and planting about now.

Alliums are onrnamental onion plants, and they can work in both formal planting schemes as well as cottage gardens. Kids and adults love the big 'Globemaster' variety, that stands almost three feet tall and has big, round purple flowerheads--sometimes as much as ten inches across. For contrast, mix your 'Globemasters' with an even taller white allium like 'Mount Everest'. If you have a container garden, try the shorter 'Blue Drumstick', which has the same round flowerheads on two-foot stems. The flowers are a lovely sky blue.

Alliums look great in the garden and in arrangements and the spent flowerheads even look good after the blooms are gone. For a lovely deer-proof planting, mix them with an array of daffodils. The deer may come and go, but you can still have a great spring garden.

Fall Chores

Elisabeth — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 18:38:00 GMT

As fall progresses, it's important to prioritize your garden chores. It's even more important, if, like most of us, you have less time in the garden than you might like.

First things first--if you have any plants waiting to go into the ground, plant them as soon as possible. You want to give the roots a chance to settle themselves in the soil before hard frosts come. If there is something you want to transplant or divide, do that now as well. If your boxes of spring-flowering bulbs have already arrived, put them in a cool dark place for the time being. They will keep, but your potted plant sale specials will not.

Gather your houseplants together on a porch or other protected spot, then take them in the house as soon as night temperatures drop below fifty.

Do fall clean-up as you complete your planting chores. Going step by step, a little at a time beats spending an entire weekend on clean-up. Keep weeding. It will pay off next spring.

Pick remaining green and greenish tomatoes and put them in a sealed brown bag in a cool, dry place in the house. Many of them will ripen just fine.

Take cuttings of desirable or unusual coleus or other plants that you want to pot up and overwinter in the house.

Plant crocus and daffodil bulbs first, followed by hyacinths. Save the tulips for last. I have planted tulips as late as mid November in mild years with no problems.

While you are at it, take time to enjoy your fall garden. Remember that it will be several months before you see flowers again.

Sweet Smelling Spring

Elisabeth — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 22:39:00 GMT

Fragrance is essential in a successful garden. If you are choosing spring-flowering bulbs remember to check labels for any reference to scent. Hyacinths, of course, are the stars of the scented spring garden, but some varieties of tulips and daffodils are also fragrant.

I am fond of double daffodils, and two doubles--'Cheerfulness' and 'Tahiti'--have sweet scents. 'Cheerfulness' has white petals touched with gold towards the centers, while 'Tahiti' sports bold yellow petals with warm orange at the middle of the flower. Both do well in the ground or in pots and can be forced for early spring bloom.

You don't necessarily associate tulips with fragrance, but some have it. I especially like the double early tulip 'Monsella', which is yellow with bright red strips. The big, showy, Darwin hybrid tulip 'Daydream' is apricot-yellow (depending on soil and other conditions), looks great in bouquets and exudes fragrance.

In my garden, looking good is a good start, but to make my all-star list, flowers must be fragrant. The birds, bees and butterflies agree.

Man (or Woman) Eating Hedges

Elisabeth — Sat, 27 Sep 2008 14:21:00 GMT

Hedges are a great thing. They define properties, keep out the neighbors' dogs (but probably not the neighbors' cats) and provide a nice backdrop for a garden. Recently there has been a vogue for mixed hedges, where several different types of shrubs alternate to form one line of greenery. Mixed hedges add interest and enhance horticultural diversity.

Whatever kind of hedge you choose, make sure that you provide enough room between the young plants and the sidewalk. Look at the planting tag on the shrubs of your choice to see how wide they are likely to be at maturity. If a particular variety will be four feet wide at maturity, for example, be sure to plant it more than two feet from the sidewalk. Otherwise it will end up as a man (or woman) eating shrub, obstructing part of the sidewalk and making it impossible for people to pass each other or walk two or three abreast without treading on the grass or other plantings on the street side of the sidewalk. Needless to say, if enough people are forced to do that on a daily basis, the grass or plantings will not survive.

But what do you do if you or, more likely, the previous owner of your house, planted the shrubs too close to the sidewalk? Taking them all out is too draconian in most cases. However, you can make sure that your shrubs are closely and regularly clipped on the street side. You can also move the shrubs back gradually, starting on one end, cutting one or two of the shrubs way down, digging them up and then replanting them a foot or two back. Your hedge will look a little unusual for a few years, but eventually it will be tamed. Be sure to do your transplanting in the spring or fall, when the shrubs will not be stressed by extreme temperatures. Provide plenty of water to your transplants and they should be fine.

Minnesota Snowflake Mock Orange Confusing Name-Great Shrub!

patti-nhn — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 20:22:00 GMT

This deciduous (meaning it loses it's leaves in the winter) shrub has a confusing name. It's scientific name is Philadelphys x virginalis. The Mock Orange refers to the appearance of the white fragrant flowers that can be compared to orange blossoms. Therefore the "mock" in the name. The fragrance of these flowers greets you in late spring. Then in fall you are greeted with yellow green fall leaves. Minnesota I believe refers to the hardiness of this shrub down to zone 5 and Snowflake also in reference to the flowers. The branches of the shrub arch out and over.

This is a great shrub and it can be pruned back if necessary. It could be used as a hedge or to brighten up a corner of your yard. It's low maintenance and "showy". I think you'll find it a great addition to your yard and may also attract birds in all seasons.

Great Fall Color and Deer Resistant!

patti-nhn — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 20:19:00 GMT

Here in the Midwest we have had weather this year that is beginning to produce a wonderful show of fall leaves on the trees and shrubs. Generally you need sunlight and cool autumn nights for the leaves to turn color. Did you know that these colors are always there but the deep green of their summer foliage keeps these colors from showing through? My understanding is that the cool nights are the main ingredient to get the best coloring. The colors can run the full spectrum and can be different shades of each color depending on the year.

One of my favorite trees for fall color is the Sourwood tree Oxydendrum arboreum. The 8" leaves are a scarlet to orange color so they can really show off and would complement other trees that would have darker red to purple tones, or even against some evergreens.

Besides having great fall color, they are deer resistant, bird friendly with their small fruits, and are a small yard tree so won't take up too much space. They will also flower in July with white flowers that have been compared to Lily of the Valley.

If you want great fall color as well as these many other valuable qualities, this is the tree for you. You can sit back and enjoy the show!

Caring for Lavender

Elisabeth — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 11:14:00 GMT

Do you have good luck with lavender? If not, there are a few possible reasons why the plants don't succeed.

Lavender needs the same amount of sun as roses--at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. If your lavender doesn't get enough light, move it to a better location.

Lavender must have excellent drainage. If heavy clay soil is a problem, transplant your lavender to a raised or sloped bed. You can also amend your soil with grit. Without soil amendment, the plants will be prone to rot.

Some lavenders are more cold-tolerant than others. Before you buy, check the USDA zone hardiness number on the seed pack or nursery tag. Despite the effects of climate change, you will have better luck with lavender if you match the plant's zone hardiness requirements to the zone in which you live.

Lavender looks beautiful and smells great. It is well worth a little extra care and attention.

Here's a Gold Nugget for You!

patti-nhn — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:31:00 GMT

It seems like gold has had the attention of the world almost since the beginning of it's creation. The color of gold is often considered warm, like the gold flames of a fire. It is most prized in jewelry and to award someone for a job well done. In the garden, it can have the same effect.

May I suggest a bush that will be prized in your landscape? The "Dart's Gold" Ninebark bush fits this description. The golden yellow leaves of this versatile shrub are bright and colorful. They are a ray of sunshine! They are deciduous so will lose their leaves to reveal papery looking branches which is attractive in the winter as well. If you are a bird watcher, there are also red berries to attract them to your yard.

Dart's Gold Physo. o. 'Dart's Gold'' generally grow about 4-5 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide so would also make a nice border plant in your yard or around or behind a flower garden. They are low maintenance and can handle dry conditions. If you want to add some sunshine, plan on a few of these bushes in your landscape.

Winterizing

Elisabeth — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 14:07:00 GMT

I am one of many people who gives my houseplants a vacation outside during the warm months. It's generally good for the plants and great for me. If it rains, I don't have to water them. I also don't have to dust around them, and since dusting is not one of my favorite activities, the respite is very nice.

Now, however, colder temperatures mean that in some parts of the country it's time to think about bringing those plants back in. Watch local weather forecasts. If night temperatures are at or below fifty, it's time for action.

Give your plants a chance to adjust to lower light conditions, by putting them in a shady protected spot outdoors for a week or at least a few days. When you bring them inside, give them the sunniest conditions possible for another week or so. Even shade lovers get a lot more light outdoors than the do inside the house. After the week in the sun, leave the sun-loving plants in the sunny areas and put the shade lovers back where they belong.

Remember that when you bring plants in, they should be checked for bugs or other problems. Pots should be cleaned off as well.

Even the hardiest plants will probably sulk for at least a few weeks. (After all, it's hard to come back from vacation.) Water when the soil feels dry, cut off foliage that dies back and refrain from fertilizing. Your plants are going into their sleepy season and feeding really won't be useful until the end of winter when you and the plants will be ready for some new growth.

Currants make wonderful tasty treats!

patti-nhn — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:37:00 GMT

We have bushes on our front fence that were there when we moved in. They appeared to be some type of vine. We couldn't figure out what kind for sure and we had just moved in and it was not on our priority list. We knew that it filled up the cyclone fence and fanned over the top to make a wonderful privacy fence.

This year we are more settled in and realized that they were actually fruiting. My husband thought they looked like grape vines and they are very much like them. The berries began forming in the spring but it was mid to late summer before they actually started to ripen. They are small berries but they grow in bunches, like grapes. They hide pretty well under the leaves so picking them is a process but we had a lot of fun doing it.

We still weren't all that energetic although we tried a few and found them to be very sweet and juicy. Our daughter-in-law came over one day and being the chef that she is wanted to experiment with them. We picked a huge bag full and she took them home with her to experiment. She wanted to make juice and so she was able to put them through a sieve which removes the fruit from the seed. They do have a good sized seed but there is still plenty fruit to use. She made some juice and then decided to make some pancake syrup and it is absolutely delicious! She can't wait to begin using them in other types of recipes and plans to grow some of her own next year. She's thinking jams, pies, pastries, etc.

We determined that they are a Black Currant Berry not grapes. They look very similar to the Consort Black Currants, Ribes nigrum "consort" that are available on our website. These are the easiest things to grow, they need almost no care whatsoever. Ours are very tough and can handle about any amount of abuse, being on the sidewalk side of our yard and being near an elementary school, they get poked and prodded on a regular basis. They are getting full sun and mainly rainwater we don't give them any extra watering. These were already established however, so if you are just starting to grow them they will need some initial care than they will down the road.

I know we plan to take better advantage of them next year, I am thinking putting them on ice cream or in smoothies, after pitting of course, might be delicious!

Multiplication by Division

Elisabeth — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 14:50:00 GMT

Most people find it very satisfying to take one large plant and divide it into two or more smaller specimens. But some plants are easier to divide than others. Daylilies, for example are easy. All you have to do is dig up the entire large plant, shake off the excess dirt, and then separate the fleshy roots with your fingers, making sure each division has enough of a root system to keep it going. Hostas take a bit more muscle, but are similarly easy to dig and divide. A garden knife or even an old paring knife is helpful in dividing the tough roots.

Campanulas, those wonderful ornamental plants with the bell-shaped flowers, can be more difficult. Recently I had to divide a ground hugging Campanula carpatica 'White Clips'. It had grown to an impressive size (about eighteen inches wide) and I wanted to start making an edging of the plants. Campanulas have many fine roots, in addition to several larger ones, all intertwined with each other. To divide successfully you have to tease the roots apart gently, a process that can take time and persistence. If you are too rough, a clump of stalks will break off with few or no roots attached. It will inevitably die.

The reason why I know so much about transplanting campanulas is because I have done it the wrong way on several occasions. Now that I know what I am doing, my campanula edging is coming along nicely. Sometimes, the only way to succeed is by failing first.

Aster Admiration

Elisabeth — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 19:51:00 GMT

Those of us who love our gardens often spend lots of time thinking about color combinations, trying to solve the riddle of "what goes with what." Even if you find the answer, you still have to worry about whether your color coordinated blooms will open at the same time. In the fall there is a great solution to this conundrum--plant asters.

Asters, those free-flowering members of the daisy family, are always color coordinated. Plant any aster with any other aster and the colors will get along. Plant any ten different asters and the colors will still look wonderful together. Why is this? Because all asters, except those with white blossoms, have greater or lesser amounts of blue in their color profiles. Even the dusty pink and rose varieties veer ever so slightly towards blue (rather than yellow). Since the white asters go with everything anyway, all asters work together.

This means that you are free to plant an entire sunny corner or bed with a mixture of tall and short asters. Planting the short ones in front of the taller varieties also covers up the tall asters' one flaw--ugly stalks. You can also grow several different varieties of aster in a large pot for an impressive fall display.

So worry about color matching in some other part of the garden. Let asters set you free.

Transplanting Shrubs

Elisabeth — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 16:53:00 GMT

In much of the country, now is the perfect time to transplant plants and shrubs. The weather has cooled off, so plants (and gardeners) aren't stressed by torrid heat. Specimens that you transplant now will have plenty of time to get established before frost sets in. Next spring they will be off to the races, getting a good head start on plants that go in after the last frost date.

Yesterday I transplanted three shrubs--two small variegated euonymus and one ground hugging juniper. Overshadowed by larger shrubs in their previous location, all three were yearning for more light and air. I dug each one out, making sure to include a large root ball; dug three large holes; filled the bottoms of the holes with a mix of soil and compost; then watered each one. The shrubs went in, followed by more topsoil and a nice blanket of mulch. If you do this kind of transplanting, make sure that the mulch doesn't touch the main trunks of your shrubs, lest rot set in.

Because of the large root balls, my new transplants haven't suffered any visible transplant shock. I will keep them well watered and watch as they get used to their new and improved garden home. This kind of "recycling"--moving plants from a less desirable location to a more desirable site--is the cost effective and highly satisfying. The money that you save (by reusing existing plants) will help you afford a few more spring bulbs.